I want to get a ibook g3 and use it in public, but I only want to bring it if it can have wifi. I'm not sure where to start.

Alright so im so close to smacking the nearest person, i am running out of ideas.

Last night, my computer and my monitor was working just fine. This morning, it doesn't recieve a signal. I've been tinkering for the last few hours, and so far i've tried:

- Swapping cables (no change)

- Connecting via a laptop with the same cable (monitor worked just fine)

- Reseating GPU (no change)

- Reseating RAM (nothing)

- Checking a million times if its plugged in correctly and to the GPU (it is)

I have done literally nothing between it working and it not working. I used it just fine last night, shut it down, went to bed and now its borked.

I am weeping. I beg. Hands and knees. Oh, Sage wisdom of Reddit. Tell me if i have completely stuffed something up.

I am running Linux Mint, AMD Radeon 6600 6gb(?) DDR4 x2 and a CPU that I frustratingly cannot remember off the top of my head and LACK THE MEANS TO CHECK GRRAAAAAAH

It came with some thin double-sided tape, but it was too weak. So I tried this other double-sided tape roll I had (2nd pic), covering the back of the screen and pressing it against the the top fans, which kept it in place for a few hours, then it fell off again. Any recommendations for keeping it firmly in place?

Hi guys, I’m trying to figure out what’s wrong with this and how to fix it,

Does this look like a failed source driver / COF on the panel, or could it be a T-con or loose FFC cable?
Is reseating the T-con to panel cables worth trying before giving up?

Any suggestions will help, thanks!

Went thrifting know the manager,
Grab this out of the bin unpriced

Guys doesn’t know much about it
Took it for $70CAD.

I’m so fucking lucky
(Even if it doesn’t work)
((It has the ram and seal))

Comrades, I need some help! I don’t know much about hardware and stuff, and something really unfortunate happened to me yesterday.
My ASUS Vivobook 16X K305 SHUT DOWN OUT OF NOWHERE and hasn’t turned back on no matter what I do. :(
I’ve already tried a bunch of things, including different reset and BIOS key combinations, turning it on with and without the charger plugged in (the battery was fully charged before it shut down), opening it up and cleaning the fan, and even disconnecting the battery to see if I could get it to turn on using only the charger. Nothing has worked so far.
It’s getting a little old, I’ve had it for 2–3 years, and honestly, judging by the pictures of the poor thing, I can imagine that a lot of this might be due to me not taking the best care of it. PLEASE DON’T JUDGE ME, OKAY? 😭 I don’t know much about hardware, so I figured I could just use it for a few years until it eventually died peacefully in its sleep.
BUT IT WAS TOO SOON 😭
This actually happened once last year, and it miraculously came back to life after a day, but the same miracle hasn’t happened this time.
Does anyone have any ideas? I’m thinking it might be the motherboard, but I’d really like to try fixing it before taking it to a repair shop.

I have a question. Will this be enough to use for processors like core 2 duo or core i5-4460? Because I want to sell one of my junk stuff and I want to be certain that I won't fry everything upon the first startup or during the operating system installation due to overloading the lines.

Hi gang,

I upgraded this old MacBook a few years back but now want to repurpose it. I can't remember if it did this or not at the time of upgrade, but it's making a weird grind-y noise every six or seven seconds. Any idea what it could be? Is it something I can fix if I buy the proper screwdriver to get inside? I was thinking maybe a fan bearing, but I've never heard one in a desktop behave quite the same way and I can still hear the regular fan noises go up and down with load. It runs an SSD too.

As of the attached video there is no OS installed, and it was happening in MacOS before that and Mint after - continues for a bit with the lid down too. Background noise is the washing machine, not the fans. Sounds to me like it's coming from the right hand side (when using the machine) from around the return and backslash keys.

Thanks!

Hello all and good day, just last night I obtained a RTX 5060! I put it in my pc and upgraded drivers. I am running into a issue where my keyboard lags out alongside my mouse and wallpaper. It happens randomly. Another clue is my audio being wonky. Also the wallpaper will be sort of slow motion but still high res

For hardware

B460M D3SH
I5-10600KF
RTX 5060 - ASUS PRIME 3 FAN
80 Gold 600W

Also here for you to understand my bios

PcieX16 (cannot run in x4) @3.0 x8
Boot seq

WINDOWS, UEFI

VRM 47.0c
CPU 40c
GPU runs 30-45c usually
PCH(?) 30c

No XMP (for now)
Turbo boost is auto (may be enabled when fixed)
4G decoding is back off.

USB

LEGACY SUPPORT - ON
XHCI - ON
MASS STORAGE DRIVER - ON
PORT 60/64 - ON

12v slightly overcharging at 12.312
5v also overcharging a 5.1
DRAM 1.226
BIOS F6A (same as previous update before updating)

Running factory defaults except fan speeds.

Actions taken

Display Driver Uninstaller
Reseat
Graphics driver reinstall
Reseat
Reseat
BIOS Update
Display Driver Uninstaller

What I can say after troubleshooting is that it is not an issue with the keyboard as I suspect but also not an issue with the hardware.

Wtf is going on lmao

2023 Samsung book 3 ultra rtx 4050 i7-1360p

I noticed my computer started becoming slower and slower recently i’m going to take it in to see what they can do to upgrade it but it’s a very small case and a prebuilt so i’m not expecting much i was just wondering if this would be a good purchase if they can’t fix it

My current specs are
GPU: 3060 ti
CPU: 12th gen intel core i7-12700f
RAM: 32gb DDR4
SSD: 1tb Nvme dec Pc sn530
HDD: 1tb toshiba dt01

i’ve been wanting to build a very novice level pc to put linux on and play around with the hardware/ software , with ram through the roof i want opinions on what the best option for low budget would be, i don’t really game so im not looking for anything crazy/ or worried about lag and performance .honestly price wise i’ve mostly been looking at i’ve been curious about the chromebook xe etc chrome book people have been using for cyberdecks, basically i just want something to do a really basic build but i don’t know enough about hardware to decide

Hi! I apologise for how messy this post is going to come across.

Back in April I returned a company laptop, and I forgot to wipe it. I was returning as quickly as possible to escape an abuser and there was no thought in my brain other than to flee the company and manager as quickly as possible.

2 days ago I received an email from my former manager asking for the recovery key since my company laptop was Bitlocker encrypted to my Microsoft Account. I got anxious reading the email because he sent it to my personal, NEW email account, which means he found more personal information on me.

Thankfully, a wonderful colleague helped draft email to send back that explained the BIOS should have a built-in feature to erase the media on partition. Or, alternatively, he can use a USB drive to create a Windows 11 Installation Media, which would also erase the media.

I hoped it would be the end of it. I was encouraged to move his email to the spam folder after that but I did not do it. I was so anxious about the whole thing.

Today, he sent an email back saying he still needs the recovery key.

I'm not an IT wizard. I have no idea if he's lying or if he genuinely needs it. I've returned company laptops before that weren't wiped and this is the first time I've encountered this issue.

I would appreciate any insight on this situation. Can he not wipe the computer? Does he really need the BitLocker key? I want this whole thing over as quickly as possible so I can move on and never have to think about him again.

AMD 9800x3D

AORUS INFINITY RTX 5080

64g ddr5 6000 cl30

Arctic pro 360 cooler

3 reverse, 5 forward 120mm fans

2 200mm front intake fans

ROG STRIX b850 wifi

Thermaltake view 390 air snow case

9.2 inch aux screen

LianLi strimers wifi, mb and CPU

Waiting for CPU strimer from USPS to deliver after holiday delay, but quick power up shows all up and running

I always have to wait like 20 mins til it stabilizes and then it runs normally but I’m tired of it.

I’m pretty sure what the issue could be, I had to fully restart it but the files from the old pc are still in that disk but combined with my current windows code so idk how to clean the disk without wiping my windows

Ryzen 7
16 gb RAM
GeForce 4080

My pc is VERY slow, there is always a problem whenever loading or doing anything, even when shutting down, or booting up, I believe it is because I have 60gb free of by 1tb netac ssd. Would getting a second ssd help?

As i said my ethernet on my pc is stuck on a loop it goes from unidentified network to identifying… to network and then back at unidentified network all within 5 seconds. For context the internet was working fine until yesterday when i turned on my pc and it just wasnt conected. Earlier that day i turned on my pc but within 10 seconds of being on the desktop i realized i wasnt gonna need it and turn it back off again (idk if this may have caused a problem) i have tried a lot of the cmd comands that AI has been giving me to try and solve this issue but nothing has worked yet. I also tried unplugging the pc letting the power drain completely for a hard reset it still didnt work. I tried unplugging and plugging the router. Also to obtain the ip adress its set to automatic, but yesterday i connected it manually and it worked for a little bit but the connection was extremely slow (nothing like it was before) so i changed it back to automatic. At this point im lost idk what else i can try. Btw at the same time the ethernet problem started happening i realized that sometimes when my cursor would go over any of the desktop icon apps their background would turn solid black and it would stay like that until i restarted the pc idk if these issues could somehow be connected.

I must say I don't have any bancary information inside my computer.

Sorry for my weak English

Moore's Law is slowly disappearing, RAM prices are still high, how long will it be until 32GB of RAM becomes the minimum standard for a set of computers

Hi I'm a simple guy who build pc i don't have much knowledge when it comes to cutting metals.

Well i just went to a metal cutting shop via checking there work in gmaps cause they have laser cutting and tools the guy rudely said we cant cut it cause of holes i too didn't continued my conversation cause he was not interested or he might be thinking this is a small work in which he won't be earning much.

Well whats the method to cut the box in the panel?

Hi everyone! I'm having trouble booting Windows 10 and would appreciate some help figuring out what went wrong and how to fix it without losing my files.

PC specs

- Motherboard: Gigabyte B450M S2H

- CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3400G (integrated Radeon Vega 11 graphics)

- GPU: ASUS Radeon RX 580 4GB

- OS: Windows 10

- Storage: Two drives currently connected, plus one disconnected HDD

What happened

My PC was working normally. I restarted it and tried to enter the BIOS by pressing Delete to check some settings. After that, Windows stopped booting.

I'm not entirely sure what caused the problem, and I don't want to assume that entering the BIOS itself broke anything.

The error appears immediately after powering on, before the Windows logo:

"Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key"

What I see in the BIOS

In Easy Mode, the boot sequence shows:

1. "P1: HGST HTS545050A7E380"

2. "P0: GENERIC LOADER SATA Device"

3. "Windows Boot Manager"

I tried moving Windows Boot Manager to the first position and saving the changes with F10, but the same error appeared. When I entered the BIOS again, Windows Boot Manager was back in the third position.

I also restored the original boot order, but that didn't help either.

SATA information

Under the Chipset settings, the SATA ports show:

- Chipset SATA Port 0: "GENERIC LOADER SATA Device" — 0.0 GB

- Chipset SATA Port 1: "HGST HTS545050A7E380" — 500.1 GB

- Chipset SATA Port 2: "Not Installed"

- Chipset SATA Port 3: "Not Installed"

Other settings:

- SATA Mode: "AHCI"

- APU SATA Port Enable: Enabled

- Chipset SATA Port Enable: Enabled

- CSM Support: Enabled

- Boot/Storage OPROM policy: Legacy Only

- Other PCI device ROM priority: Legacy Only

- Fast Boot: Disabled

In the F12 boot menu, I previously saw:

1. "P1: HGST HTS545050A7E380"

2. A blank entry

3. "P0: GENERIC LOADER SATA Device"

4. "Enter Setup"

Windows Boot Manager was not listed in the F12 menu. Selecting P0 resulted in the same boot error.

Physical drives

There are currently two drives connected to the PC:

- A black Apacer 512GB 2.5-inch SSD, with the part number "85.DB2E0.B100C"

- A blue GOODRAM drive, marked "HDDGR-03-500" (I haven't identified its exact model yet)

I also have a disconnected Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 500GB HDD.

I'm not sure which drive Windows is installed on. I initially suspected the Apacer SSD, but that was only a guess.

The BIOS doesn't explicitly identify an Apacer SSD. Instead, it shows the HGST 500.1GB drive and the "GENERIC LOADER SATA Device" with a capacity of 0.0 GB. I'm not sure which physical drives these entries correspond to.

I briefly inspected the Apacer SSD's label without opening its casing. After reconnecting the PC, the BIOS information remained unchanged.

What I've tried

- Changed the boot order to put Windows Boot Manager first.

- Saved the changes and restarted.

- Restored the original boot order.

- Checked the SATA port information and relevant BIOS settings.

- Checked the F12 boot menu.

None of these steps fixed the problem.

I have not formatted any drives, deleted partitions, converted the system disk from MBR to GPT, or reinstalled Windows.

My questions

1. Why might Windows Boot Manager appear in Easy Mode but not in the F12 boot menu?

2. What could cause a SATA device to appear as "GENERIC LOADER SATA Device" with a capacity of 0.0 GB?

3. How can I determine which physical drive contains Windows and whether the BIOS is detecting it correctly?

4. Is there a safe way to diagnose or repair the boot problem without reinstalling Windows or risking my personal files?

Unfortunately, I don't currently have a USB flash drive or access to another computer to create Windows recovery media, so I'd like to know if there's anything else I can safely check first.

I'm especially concerned about preserving my files, so I'd appreciate advice that avoids formatting or making unnecessary changes to the drives.

Thanks in advance!

FLRDS16G6400HC38JBK 16GB DDRS 6400 (1Rx8) CL38 -46-46-84 1.35V

This is the current ram I have, I have two of them so 32gb in total. I want to put 2 x 16 on top of it.

I can not find the same one... i feel like it is out of stock, do you guys happen to know what the most compatible ram would be in my situation?

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Not sure if this is the type question you ask here but not sure where else: anyone know if there are SATA to USB adapters WITH external power that also ONLY power on when you turn on your PC?

I bought 2 adapters recently, one with and one without external power. The one without didn't draw enough power from USB to turn on the HDD, but the one with external power, starts the drive spinning even with the PC off. Thankfully it does have it's own power button, but would prefer having one that I dont need to manually turn on and will just power on and off with the PC.