After realizing how massive the textbook AS35 is I wanted a smaller pack for shorter days of ski touring. I did a lot of altering of the gusset, front, and back panel dimensions and added side pockets and a big side access zipper. Also threw a front panel pocket on for quick access to knick knacks and opted for a roll top over a cinch. No top brain on this pack either in comparison to the AS35. Used mostly xpac/ecopac and nylon ripstop ottertex for the leopard print. Weighs in at 2lb 12 oz, stoked with the end product. Pray for snow!

I already had cut the panels a while back but didn’t finish it because of a lack of fitting zipper pulls sliders. They arrived this morning, so finally I could finish it.

This fanny pack it’s based on a pattern by [u/sugarshackforge](u/sugarshackforge) (thanks once again for your patterns, this is at least the third time I’m using one of yours), but I altered it so it can be used as a hip belt pocket, too.

Materials:
• Ultra 200X
• 40D double ripstop nylon (liner)
• generic stretch mesh (inner pocket)
• 3D hex mesh
• first time using Gütermann Mara 70 (for those who read my other post today, lol)

I took a superman inspired fall whilst wearing my Montbelle Versalite and tore and abrased the sleeve of jacket fairly well - 2 inch damage zone at least. Ever the optimist, I am looking to patch it up - you can see in the image that I have previously used Tenacious style tape for another tear and for many pinholes on this jacket (verified that it's scrub resistance is low) I just aquaseal style product.

Now I was thinking to clean the tear and have considered two main choices:

1. Tape it over from both sides (tenacious style tape) and seal edge of the tape as required. Just not sure how to tape first bit as it will stick to whatever I am flattening the jacket against..
2. Patch with some silpoly/ silnylon. I have 1.1oz material etc leftover from making tent. Was thinking to stitch on patch (very difficult with machine as it is in the arm sleeve so may be a hand sew) then seam seal the edges. For a small patch the lack of breathability won't matter - just want to stop water running down my arms to the inside.

Keen to hear people's feedback on this or any ideas.

These are the XL bag in the bike bag pattern set I posted a while ago.

One update I made to these was to sew the 1" daisy chain to 1.5" webbing before sewing it to the bag.

I have already found somewhere i can get 0.5 yards of it for about £17, and a yard for £32, but is there anywhere i could maybe get it made cheaper? I would be getting it in cotton or a poly cotton or even wool. are there any manufacturers that can make a custom tartan like this or is it worth just getting the fabric from the places i have found?

So I’ve been using Gütermann Mara 80 thread for a while now, because when starting out it was easier to get (and slightly cheaper) than Mara 70. For my purposes it worked fine, as far as I can tell, given the fact that I’m relatively novice at sewing.

But since everybody here seems to be using Mara 70, I recently ordered a spool of it and now I have questions.

1.: what’s the reason why everybody is using 70? Comparing both, 80 seems to be slightly thicker (by the looks of it, according to the Gütermann website they’re the same Tex), but 70 is smoother (maybe the reason for it looking finer).
Is it due to it being more readily available at the most popular myog online shops or does it have a specific reason?

2.: does the smoothness/roughness of one or the other make a difference in the strength of the seam? I imagine the rougher 80 to have more ‘grip’ in the stitch holes, but again: relatively novice, not really that much experience in long-term-durability of the items produced by me.

3.: which one would be better for the main seams in a (Rolltop) backpack made from Ultra 200 X or Fanny packs made from xpac vx21 (just as examples so I can better understand possible differences). Or does it make no real difference, because they’re the same Tex?

Hey r/MYOG!

I plan on making my first backpack! So far I've only made small things like dry bags/packing cubes so it'll be a challenge. I thought I'd share my idea because some of you will have tried similar things and might have input. What doesn't work, what's generally a dumb idea? 😄

It is inspired by ultralight hiking backpacks and especially this one by zipworks: https://youtu.be/4e5pBQjMD6s?is=B3fvgbvpX_ghUNgi (I can't remove the embed above, that's NOT me of course 😅)

However, I want to add some pockets and a u zip because I will mostly be travelling with it, but 1/3 of the time travelling will be outdoor activities. I think it'll come out under 700g.

Load: 4.3kg while travelling +2.5 when camping +water/food

Construction

• Body: 30l box shape
  • No frame, Floating Foam Insert in Sleeve
  • Front, top-folded double back panel/sleeve
    • inside not as long as outside, 1" strip of Velcro to close, not right at top (so nothing snags on it) and with harsh side towards back)
  • One continuous side-bottom-side strip
  • U-zip in the front, going along sides and top, hinged at the bottom
  • Top: Tubular rolltop with extra 10l (closed by zipper)
  • UltraGrid 210D 132g/qm
  • YKK 5C
  • 25mm non-snag Velcro
  • EV50 4mm foam
• Outside pockets
  • Two very high (25cm) side pockets
  • Big (30cm) front pocket
  • UltraStretch 186g/qm
• Inside Pocket
  • 3 Net pockets with zipper on inside of back panel (2x ¼ of back panel, 1x ½ of back panel (min 29x21cm so it could theoretically hold my laptop)
  • YKK 3C
  • Mesh, durable, polyamide, 106g/sqm
• Harness
  • J Straps without load lifters
    • With 0.5l bottle stretch pocket (low enough to comfortably reach
  • Small hipbelt
    • Middle of hipbelt 52cm from seam of shoulderstraps to fit torso length
    • with phone sized zipper pocket
  • 25mm Polyester Webbing (doesnt stretch)
  • Ladderlock
  • YKK 3C
  • EV50 10mm foam
  • Double side release buckle
• Misc
  • Grosdrain (for edge binding)

No need for waterproofness: UltraGrid is PU coated, 1500mm hydrostatic head: 30min light rain ok; Nylofume liner (40l 20g) as backup for full waterproofness

I am in Germany, hence unfortunately no RSBTR 🥲

Excited to hear what you think!

Hello! So, i am fairly new to boiled wool, specifically, the knitted kind. I have been looking for a nice heavy wool fabric for a heavy overcoat, and i finally found a 100% merino boiled wool that is 860gsm. PERFECT! Until i got the sample home and realised it was knitted. I love the feel of the fabric except for the stretch. If i put interfacing basically everywhere, can that stiffen it enough for an overcoat? What is everyones experience with boiled wool?

Does anyone know where these cord locks can be found? I’ve tried all the usual places. I found them in my junk drawer and have no idea where they came from. They work great on a shoulder pocket design I’m working on.
Thanks!!

Okay, so I'm a big fan of upright steamer trunks (open like a book, not a chest). But anybody that knows anything about them knows they are heavy. I have been trying to come up with an idea to build one lightweight with cheap materials (like a pvc pipe frame) but the weight still stacks up fast. Something like that would need 50ft+ of pvc, and that's 12lbs and up. Make it 15lbs for the sake of actually getting it built right. Might not sound like a lot, but it compounds. A .5" plywood top and bottom adds somewhere in the ballpark of 10lbs. So were at 25lbs with only a frame and the rigid top and bottom panels. No cladding, no internal compartments. I still have room to go, but once I start getting above 50 and into 60-70lb territory, I'm into actual steamer trunk weights and have lost the plot on the whole idea. So I guess the question is... Can anyone suggest materials, methods, or anything that would help to make this sturdy yet light while still being cost effective and easily found?

I had this frame from an old Field & Stream pack with a folding upper section. My dad gave me his old military duffel... So, I mixed them. A few grommets and some paracord later, tada

Little update the trivet I posted here a while back and got thoroughly roasted for actually sold! I’m genuinely pretty damn happy about it.

And who the hell called it a bottomless ashtray? 😂 If the buyer actually uses it as an ashtray, I might cry…

Made a frame bag for my tandem bike out of some retired rope from the local climbing gym! First time making a bag for my bike and the rope turned out to be much harder to work with than expected because the bag is so small. Not perfect by any means, but works great for all my needs of holding my phone and wallet while out for a ride.

The bag is made from the rope sheath with webbing around the outside to attach to the bike frame with some paracord. Very loosely followed this pattern: https://bikepacking.com/gear/how-to-make-a-bikepacking-framebag-krampus/

I picked up archery recently after finding some arrows and a bow at the thrift shop. I’m not sure if I’m going to commit to the sport so I’d like to make myself a quiver using some scrap. Im hoping to basically make a tube (maybe a rectangular shape if that’s easier) but I’m absolutely stuck on how to sew this together. Does anyone have advice for sewing up a tube with a reinforced bottom?

This is a quick and easy way to use fabric remnants!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HLiYPuRUYLLeJwM_p0soRFeEre5AOGiF/view?usp=drivesdk

Ethan Goss - Goss Handmade

Hi everyone,

I am currently designing my tent from scratch with FreeCAD. I have the inner part wich is quite easely to do. But for the outside fabric I have a hard time finding ways to draw it on CAD software.

The principal problem is that the fabric is too puffy; it should be taut.

Do you have any tips on how to do it ?

I would like for it to be as close of reality as possible before printing the sketch and do the first draft.

Thanks a lot,

If anyone can contribute, I'm very grateful:)

Hello everyone! I have no experience but I love a good diy. I want to fix some of my bags where the plastic edges have come off. I am not sure what the correct term for that is but I don‘t know what to search for or how to fix this. But I don‘t want to throw bags away just because of this…

This is based on a pouch I got online for a few dollars, I took that apart and recreated it, but I'd like to make a few of these, so instead of continuing to do front+back+gusset top and bottom, I'm instead doing it with zipworks' pouch pattern generator, adding everything I need to the face, then closing it up.

Certainly a much more fun way to do it, still need to dial in exactly where the seams on the front should be.

This is a super niche ask, but does anyone print (and is willing to share a file) or know of a company that prints adapters for pump sacks?

I've got a Therm-a-Rest pump sack I absolutely love. It's seam-taped and waterproof with a wide opening (that cinches) so it doubles as a pack liner. I also stuff my clothes in it for a body pillow. It weighs very little (less than a compactor bag) and is more durable than nylofoam.

However, I also backpack with my 4-year-old about 1/2 the time. We just got my kid a Nemo Tensor pad (upgrading her to adult stuff). And the pump sack sucks. It's tapered at the top, so it's utterly useless as anything else. I have to carry her gear, so every ounce counts!

I'm wondering if anyone has bought or can develop an adapter that would fit into the Therm-a-Rest pump sack (female) and then can be screwed into the threaded Nemo Tensor (male) so I can use the same pump sack and just have a little adapter. Also open to any ideas for how I could MYOG it from the parts I've already got.

Sure, I could just blow up her pad. But I'm above 12k quite frequently, and she likes to use the pump sack to "do it herself." So there's that.

I do not own a 3d printer, but I have access to one via a neighbor or I'm happy to support a cottage shop.

I went searching the web and couldn't find anything relevant.