screenshot ,this is really bothering me because while using -ai in my search it does get rid of the ai overview at the top and show normal answers, theres still ai overview for sections like these . is there any way to just get rid of gemini completely ? :-(

thanks 4ur help

I own a built PC, I checked and it is not overheating none of the parts or plugins are loose and I have ran out of hope what do I do. I happens about every 10 or more minutes and I am not running anything to overwhelm it or anything. I don't know if it's the hardware or the software. So what do I do.

I've had this BSOD happen to me for quite a while now and I was just continuing on and ignoring it, but I thought I'd finally get around to actually seeing if I can do anything about it, sometimes it happens like a week apart or sometimes it can take 3-4 weeks before it happens again so it's very inconsistent. I've attached the minidump folder if anyone can assist me on this!

https://files.catbox.moe/d9udsu.zip

Specs:
Operating System

Windows 11 Home 64-bit

CPU

AMD Ryzen 7 7700 46 °C

Raphael 5nm Technology

RAM

32.0GB Dual-Channel Unknown @ 3198MHz (32-38-38-76)

Motherboard

Micro-Star International Co., Ltd. B650 GAMING PLUS WIFI (MS-7E26) (AM5)

Graphics

4087MB NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER (Gigabyte) 35 °C

512MB ATI AMD Radeon Graphics (MSI)

Storage

1907GB Lexar SSD NM790 2TB (Unknown (SSD))

1907GB Lexar SSD NM790 2TB (Unknown (SSD))

3726GB Seagate Expansion HDD SCSI Disk Device (USB (SATA) )

3726GB Seagate Expansion Desk SCSI Disk Device (USB (SATA) )

Audio

NVIDIA Virtual Audio Device (Wave Extensible) (WDM)

I have been having an issue where I turn on my PC from a cold boot and it runs for about 2-5 mins and then turns off.

On the motherboard the CPU light is also on and remains solid now when I turn it on. The CPU fan does spin as soon as I turn it on.

It then will flicker seeming in an attempt to power back on but then quickly turns back off

I have replaced the PSU today to see if this was the problem. It worked for about 5 mins again and then turned off again.

I also had replaced the thermal paste on the CPU to see if that may have been the problem but that also didn't work.

I have attempted to reseat the ram.

I am at a loss for what I should do. I feel like I have exhausted many of the possible solutions and I am in desperate need of help.

Thank you in advance to anyone willing to help me.

While gaming, my main monitor randomly loses its display signal and goes black. My PC itself continues running, and the game appears to keep running in the background. The GPU fans also continue spinning during the black screen.

I’ve also noticed that my GPU temperature can reach around 80°C or higher before the display loss. I recently updated my graphics drivers, but the issue has persisted.
I checked Windows Event Viewer and found a Display event (Event ID 4107), although I’m not sure whether it is related to the problem.

Ive tried reinstalling the drivers both display adapter and nvidia graphic driver but the issue persist.

It only happens when im playing or running intensive applications

Hello, my pc hasn’t been working for the longest time and I was wondering if anyone knows what could be wrong with it and if anyone knows how to fix it. The message that pops up says, “Over Current Have Been Detected On Your USB Device! l
System will shutdown after 15 seconds to protect your mainboard!|_”. ChatGPT says it’s a motherboard issue, but that’s a really expensive fix so I want to make sure that it is a motherboard issue before I buy a new one. Does anyone know what I can do to fix it?

Computer is a HP 200 G4 22 All-in-One PC. For context, I left it on last night and it was perfectly fine, but then this morning, when I woke up, I noticed that it was turned off.

I thought my cat might have managed to turn it off, but turning it back on did… Nothing at all. I checked to make sure it was plugged in, it was. The wire was fine. It didn‘t have a light on to indicate that it was receiving power, though.

I plugged it into a different slot on the strip, and then I tried plugging it into an outlet (no strip, just the outlet itself)

These didn’t work, and got no response whatsoever.

I took it apart, everything looked good inside, put it back together, and tried plugging it in again.

This time, the light indicating that it was receiving power came on, and quickly faded out. It did not turn on. It does this consistently now. I’ve never had any issue leaving it on overnight, and it did not overheat while I was asleep this morning.

TLDR: My computer isn’t getting power. The cable is fine, and I made sure everything internally was connected properly. If I plug it in now, the light indicating it’s receiving power will turn on briefly, but fade out fairly fast. It won’t turn on, as it seems like something is keeping it from receiving power properly.

Does anyone have any clue what might be going on, or what I could do?

So just today my hard drive randomly disconnected from my PC, restarted and it was back on again. Started Hard Drive Sentinel and CrystalDiskInfo and found out that drive seems to be on its' last legs. Sentinel says it has 4 days left to live. I read a bit regarding my next steps but just wanted to be sure I'm not missing anything.

Reallocated Sectors Count = 78
Current Pending Sector Count = 2001
Uncorrectable Sector Count = 1240

From a few posts I've read, I know I should focus on backing up un-downloadable data (which happens to account for like 2/3 of the drive), I'm using Teracopy to copy salvageable files, it's relatively fast although it hangs on dead files "Error reading file. Data error (Cyclic redundancy check). Code: 23" for anywhere between 5 - 40 minutes and the skip button doesn't work when it's copying one of those files. Is there anything else I should keep in mind when copying over data this way?

Unfortunately, I don't have enough spare storage to cover the full amount of data I need to back up and my wallet is extremely tight so buying brand new would not be financially responsible in my case. Next week, I will be trading a few PC parts hopefully for a used hard drive but I'm worried I don't have that long. I was wondering if backing up to any cloud service would be a feasible option and if it isn't what would my current storage alternatives look like for the rest of the data?

In the event that I do have enough time and options to select what to trade for, probably be in the $50 - $100 range, what make and model would be a decent secondhand replacement? Is a SATA to USB adapter + external power enough to be able to accurately check the replacement drive's health?

Hi, so I am trying not to panic, but I was playing my game and for a brief 5 seconds my game closed down and my mouse began to move on it’s own, I at the time not thinking and assuming it was a glitch tried to move my mouse to regain control, it resisted then gave me control back. Then the panic hit because I have never had that happen before.

I’d like to preface by saying that I am a complete dunderhead at stuff like this. I know extremely limited pc and tech knowledge so go easy on me!

Here’s what I do know:

For the past few months my chrome browser keeps changing from google to yahoo, it kept annoying me changing it to google and on it’s own it keep changing back to yahoo, that I made chrome forget yahoo. Of course yahoo still comes back. I’m not sure if it’s related or not.

I searched by installation date and lively wallpaper rocksdanister was installed 8 days ago, I did not do that, I am not sure if it’s logging an automatic update.

I have an ad blocker too so not sure where it could have come from, maybe a mod I downloaded?

What I have done so far:

Soon as I saw the curser move I unplugged my ethernet cable.

I ran a smart scan on spybot search and destroy. With an all clear.

Windows is saying my pc is fine.

I have searched for remote access apps and nothing is on my pc, unless a trojan?

I can’t see anything super out of the ordinary but I am not sure if I should change all my passwords and disconnect my cards anyway?

Am I being paranoid? If I have been remote accessed how do I kick this person out?

Any help would be appreciated. I am stupid when it comes to all this stuff.

Hello, I don't know if this is the right place but I got a problem with an extension. A long time ago I downloaded that infamous flash player extension that was a malware or something, and as soon as Malwarebytes detected it as a Trojan I unistalled it and deleted its folder and anything the AV could get rid of. Some days ago, the AV reports that it is back again but I don't understand how... I desynced the extensions from my browser and didn't download any other add-ons in the meantime, but maybe I had to do something else to ensure the total deletion of this trojan? Any help appreciated.

i’ve never used a mac before so i apologize if this is a dumb post 😅. i was using my mac and it randomly restarted, and then i couldn’t exit safari or use it even though the tab stayed open. i’m not really sure what happened but safari doesn’t appear to be functioning. i have no other extensions, and i think no other tabs open (i’m not really sure how to check) but i have to complete an assignment in a couple hours. i’m not quite sure what’s going on with my computer…please help!!

Hi everyone. I'm looking for help with an unbearable issue that has completely ruined my experience after updating to the new Windows 11 25H2. I want to clarify right off the bat that my system worked perfectly on version 24H2 and I never had this issue before.

My GPU: ASUS Prime AMD Radeon RX 9060 XT (16GB VRAM).

The Problem: This bug happens with absolutely anything I try to run in Fullscreen mode (native PC games, emulators, and even video players like VLC).

The exact moment an application enters fullscreen, the screen starts flickering constantly, the mouse freezes or stutters severely, and the image suffers from erratic visual glitches, almost like infinite ghosting or frame desynchronization.

The weirdest part of this behavior is that if I just let the problem happen and don't touch anything while the game is flickering in fullscreen, after a short moment the game crashes internally and automatically forces itself into Windowed Mode. Once it's in windowed mode, all the flickering and freezing disappear. Basically, exclusive fullscreen seems completely broken.

(I've attached videos to this post showing exactly what the flickering looks like).

What I've already tried (without success): To rule out a basic software error on my end, I've already done the following:

1. Clean driver install: I completely wiped my display drivers and did a clean install. I am even using the exact same AMD Adrenalin driver version that I was using on Windows 11 24H2, where everything worked flawlessly.
2. Disabled MPO (Multi-Plane Overlay): Turned this off directly through the Registry Editor (Regedit).
3. Disabled Hardware Acceleration: Turned off "Hardware-accelerated GPU scheduling" (HAGS) in the Windows system settings.
4. Disabled Windowed Optimizations: Turned off "Optimizations for windowed games" in the Windows graphics settings.

It feels like the new Desktop Window Manager (DWM) in version 25H2 is causing a massive conflict with the AMD drivers when trying to handle fullscreen, but I'm out of options to tweak.

Is anyone else experiencing this with the new Windows update, or does anyone have an idea how to fix this at the root?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Self explanatory, this problem has already been talked before and I already know how to uninstall the faulty drivers. What I want to know and haven't really seen anyone talking about is how else i am supposed to update my drivers, I tried using NVCleanistall but no luck, problem still persists. Any other solution? I'm using Nvidia btw

I'm having an issue with the USB ports on my pc, so hers a step by step of everything I did, in case it helps point out any flaws with my tactics.
My PC was sleeping so i turned the monitor on and typed in my password. I then plugged in the dongle to my mouse, only for it not to connect. I thought it was just the mouse, as I have trouble getting that mouse to connect sometimes, so i removed the dongle and inserted a dongle for another mouse, only to find myself with the same issue. I held down the power button and restarted the pc and tried the mice again. It still didn't work, so I decided to test two wired mice, only for them both to light up but not move across the screen. I then removed every usb I had connected to the pc, and tested the mice again, ensuring I tried each port but still nothing. I unplugged the pc for an hour and tried again, only now my wired keyboard also will not allow me to type anything. Usually the keyboard cycles through an rgb pattern, but after about 10 seconds the lights either shut off or are just plain white. I tested each mouse and the keyboard on a laptop of mine and they all work. It seems like maybe the ports are putting out power but not enough? I'm really not sure. Has anyone had this issue and corrected it? Is it fixable? It's an old HP Pavilion gaming tower with an updated cpu, in case that is necessary information. I know its old, but I was hoping to get another year or two out of it so any help is much appreciated.

I used Windows 11, though I'm not sure which version its on and am unable to check.

To make a really long short story, my kid downloaded something online and asked me why his game wouldnt open. Checked the download and found it sus already but immediately got random download and didnt think much of it. Ran windows defender and immediately noticed something was off. First quick scan found 2 trojans and then did a full scan after that. Found more trojans and kept coming up so i knew something was off. Ran rkill and found nothing running. Didnt really notice i had decodigi32 until after i did a full restart to see an error window come up ending with decodigi32. I knew what it was and immediately tried to get rid of it asap.

I got almost all of it but couldnt rid the exe cause it was running somewhere but rkill didnt detect anything. Took me about 10-15 minutes to completely rid decodigi32 off my computer or at least i cant seem to find anything left on either drives when i did a full search. I scanned with malwarebyte and windows defender and found no threats. How fked/safe am i? I've already started to change some passwords to big things. Also i did press no on every attempt to install/change things that came up. If defender sees no more threats on full scan and malwarebyte sees nothing on a deep scan, should i assume im pretty much outta the woods?

I reach the great tech gurus for your wisdom and help. I'm having serious CPU temperature issues after moving my PC into a new case. I've tried several things without success, and I'm starting to suspect my AIO might be faulty. I'd appreciate some advice before spending money on a replacement.

Specs

• CPU: Intel Core i7-14700KF
• Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 AORUS ELITE AX
• CPU Cooler: Arctic Liquid Freezer III 240 A-RGB (purchased around April 2025)
• GPU: Zotac NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060
• RAM: 32GB
• PSU: Corsair CV650 650W
• Case: Cooler Master Elite 690 Wood Black (recently purchased)

I recently upgraded my case and installed my Arctic Liquid Freezer III 240 inside it. The radiator is mounted vertically on the side of the case. Previously, the radiator was mounted outside my old case because it wouldn't fit.

After the upgrade, I noticed extremely high CPU temperatures, sometimes reaching 100–102°C, even when launching Windows or playing relatively undemanding games like Grim Dawn.

At idle, CPU temperatures fluctuate between approximately 50–65°C, but under gaming loads they rapidly increase to 90–100°C, causing thermal throttling.

What's particularly concerning is that HWiNFO recorded a maximum CPU package power of only 93.6W, while CPU temperatures reached 100–102°C during the same monitoring session.

HWiNFO also reported thermal throttling during approximately 35% of the monitored period.

What I've tried and haven't worked:

1. Reapplied thermal paste multiple times. Cleaned the CPU and cooler with isopropyl alcohol. On my first attempt, I didn't have enough thermal paste, and when I removed the cooler the next day, the paste had barely spread from its original line. This made me suspicious of poor contact.
2. Reapplied fresh thermal paste in an X pattern, carefully reinstalled the pump block, and ensured it was properly tightened. Unfortunately, temperatures are still extremely high.
3. Cleaned the radiator and fans, which were quite dusty from being exposed outside my previous case.
4. Opened the case panels to improve airflow, but this made no noticeable difference.
5. Checked and reseated the AIO cable connected to the pump block. No improvement.
6. Checked the BIOS (Gigabyte Smart Fan 6):
   • CPU temperature in BIOS: approximately 44–46°C.
   • CPU_FAN: 1461 RPM under Normal settings.
   • CPU_FAN: up to 1901 RPM at Full Speed.
   • Changed CPU_FAN Control Mode from Auto to PWM.
   • Returned fan speed control to Normal afterward.
   • No improvement in gaming temperatures.
7. Checked the AIO connections. I'm using the All-in-One PWM cable connected to CPU_FAN. CPU_OPT is connected to another case fan, while the other AIO connection is for ARGB lighting. Since I'm using the All-in-One cable, I understand the RPM reading corresponds to the radiator fans rather than the pump itself.
8. Checked the tubes and radiator. The tubes feel slightly lukewarm, but mostly cool. The air coming out of the radiator also feels cool, even when the CPU reports very high temperatures. I can hear what sounds like water moving through the tubes.

HWiNFO Results

While idle:

• CPU Package: approximately 55°C
• CPU usage: 1–5%
• No active thermal throttling

Playing Grim Dawn:

• CPU Package: approximately 96°C
• Maximum recorded temperature: 100–102°C
• CPU usage: approximately 6–7% at the moment of capture
• Maximum recorded CPU Package Power: 93.6W
• Thermal Throttling: Yes
• PL1 / PL2: 253W / 253W

I might screwed it up by having my AIO outside my old case for a year and a half, I had to get my economy straight >-<! Also I know the Intel Core i7-14700KF is a faulty CPU.

I'm out of ideas, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all awesome chads who took their time to read.

Hi all,

I'm running a 5950x paired with a RTX 4070 12GB, 32GB 3200 DDR4 ram, and two samsung nvme drives. I'm running a fresh windows install, all my drivers are updated, I've tried running a DDU to no avail. I've deleted my shaders. I've tried rolling back drivers, I've tried all manner and combination of nvidia control panel, windows, bios, and arc raiders settings. I've tried many things.

I'm running sub 120fps on lower settings with high frame times.

The weirder thing is that it doesn't seem to want to utilize 100 percent of my gpu resources when this is happening. I'm on a 1440p 180hz gsync monitor. I've tried nvidia reflix on, boost and off. I've tried vsync on and off, I don't wish to use frame gen. Even running dlss on dlaa, quality, balanced, performance and ultra performance, it has this issue. I even changed out the cable with a known good DP cable.

I've checked to make sure everything is seated properly, everything else runs fine except for this one game.

I'm at my wits end. Anyone have any ideas what could be going on?

My dads computer has had this happen twice where a Bsod appears and it looks like a png. There’s a mouse moving and clicking through stuff while the png is on the screen. I’ve tried looking this up and couldn’t find anything what is it and what to do 👀

I don’t know I have never tryed it I’ve tryed every thing but it didn’t work and my only idea is the wireless usb dongle but I don’t know if it will work

Last week, I started getting multiple BSOF errors, and each time I tried to troubleshoot, it would give a different error. After an hour, it got to the point where the PC wouldn't even boot. I took it to get repaired, they swapped out the hard drive, recovered data, and gave it back. Two days later, the same thing happened, and I got the same errors.

System Thread Exception not Handled 0x7E. CI.dll failed

Memory error 0x3A

Driver IRQL Not Equal or Less 0xD1. Netwtw10.sys failed

System Service Exception 0x3B

Kernel Security Check Failure 0x139

Page Fault in Non Page Area 0x50

Hi all,

I get this page whenever I click a link in my email. It happens for every website.

Any ideas how I can fix this? I have an iPhone 18pro

“This website does not support connecting securely over HTTPS. The information you see and enter on this website, including credit cards, phone numbers, and passwords, can be read and altered by other people.

Thank you!

My wired Glorious D 2 has stopped working at seemingly random moments. I don't say "disconnected" because it does in fact connect to the computer, the light on the bottom is faint but glowing when plugged in, but none of the lights on the sides work nor does the laptop receive input. It isn't a problem with the port as the mouse doesn't work no matter what port, plus other things connect to the port just fine. A faint buzzing can be heard when plugged in and not on a surface. Oddly, after leaving it alone for some time it does work for a bit, but deactivates again after some use.

The wire is completely intact. I have tried cleaning the plug, this has not worked. I have a feeling it may be dust getting on the circuit boards since the mouse has this hole-y design but I both can't find any way to open it and am worried doing so would void the warranty. Nothing I can find online matches what I have going on, nor do I see any people talking about problems with this model. Is there anything else I can do?

Hi, its kind of hard to explain this without giving a video of what its doing, but my cursor keeps snapping back to the top middle of the screen when i hover over the taskbar, or app windows. However, when im in an app window such as Chrome, it snaps back even more, leaving no room for my cursor to roam as opposed to being on the desktop. Ive tried resetting multiple times, replugging my mouse, and even trying to go to my mouse settings (which since its a miniwindow, I cannot go to since my mouse keeps snapping into place). Please help, I hope I dont need a new mouse..

Hi! I've been encountering an issue with my computer where the display disconnects whenever I run a graphic-intensive game, but sound still goes through.

I'm currently on Windows with an Nvidia RTX 3080 Ti.

Turning my monitor off and on again doesn't do anything. It also doesn't seem to be a driver-related issue, as I've upgraded and downgraded my graphics driver only for the issue to occur regardless.

Opening Event Viewer when this happens consistently shows an error with an event ID of 1000 in which dwm.exe faults.

I'm suspecting it's a hardware issue, and I'm wondering if there's any way of fixing it myself. I have a bracket on my GPU to prevent sag, though it's been a while since I've re-adjusted it.

I'd appreciate any sort of insight into my issue. Thank you!