I am planning on replacing part of my fence, and I just had a random thought. These 4 in. x 8 ft. Powder Coated Black Steel posts from seem like they don't require substantial foundation for setting the posts. If I wanted to make a small shed, maybe 8'x12', could I use these posts? I know they aren't really designed to hold a load like that, but I think they might be durable enough to use for a small shed. Thoughts? Is this a bad idea?

I'm not really if I'm allowed to post links, but here is a photo:

When ever my bedroom goes above 60% humidity it starts to get a musty earthy smell. closest i can compare it to is wet plaster you've put on a wall and its drying. I've looked all over and cant find any obvious signs of mould growth. Any advice would be much appreciated. I've got myself a dehumidifer but not sure how much good its doing it seems to struggle to lower the humidity levels.

Hello all, I'm trying to make some fun Halloween decorations and I had an idea where I could attach some decor to some fishing line and have a motorized pulley that would go up and down. Ya know, to give it the illusion of floating. But I can find any kind of motorized pulleys anywhere online. I'm not looking for anything that can lift heavy objects, just small decor, maybe 3 lbs max. Any ideas would be helpful!

We had mice and I saw there were some droppings on the insulation of the dishwasher because they were hiding between that and the top of the counter.

I tried pulling my dishwasher out and it comes out a few inches before it feels like something in the back is catching on it. Google says it should just slide out and in all the videos they just pull it out. I'm worried that if I just keep yanking that I will rip the water hose attached to it and flood the house. Do I need to somehow disconnect the hose first? Im not really sure if I can if that's the case because it's not out far enough for me to reach behind it.

Also, can I pick up another of this insulation thing at like Home Depot or something? I looked online and can't seem to find any except for some that are rolls of it and hundreds of dollars. I feel like this should be something that's like $20 max.

Hi all. Just moved into a new rental unit and looking to install acoustic slat wood panels over the wall behind my work desk for added texture and echo absorption. I bought these 92.5" x 11" wood panels from amazon and need some help regarding the installation:

1. Since this is a rental unit I'm leaning towards using screws rather than adhesives since it'll leave less of a mess and easier to paint over whenever I move out. I've been looking online for the types of screws to use and it seems that I can either go with drywall screws (#6, 1" to 1.5") or screws that fix directly into the studs. Question is which type of screws should I use? If only using drywall screws, will it have issues with stability over time? If using stud-fixing screws, what size/length should I be looking for? Assume I'll mark out all the stud locations and try to check for wires before installing these.

2. How many screws should I use per 11" wide panel? Some websites say 15 screws per panel but this seems excessive?

3. Would a multitool saw be enough to cut out slots on the panels for outlets and work around windowsills, or do I need more robust tools like a circular saw (which I would really prefer not needing for cost and frequency of use)? Are there any other tools that I might need which I'm not thinking of?

Appreciate any help or questions!

Basicly the problem is what when I tried to fix an broken tilt (In both directions) I accidentally made it stuck but it opens just a little on both tilt modes so yeah I'm up for any advice

Hi everyone, I just purchased my first home and it has a pretty unique situation for us to deal with.. on the backside of the yard, there is a concrete irrigation canal that water is run through from May-October every year. We get water shares for it which is pretty cool, but there's a ton of water that's leaking through cracks into the yard, oversaturating the soil. Previous owners built a brick shed/workspace about 5 feet from the canal, on a concrete slab. Unfortunately, there is a ton of moisture and mold inside the shed, which has drywalled walls and ceiling (mold test confirmed).

We will be having a remediation company clear out the existing mold and treat for reducing future mold, but my concern is that without addressing the moisture issue, the water will keep coming up through the slab. Luckily, we will have a good amount of time when the canal is turned off to let everything dry out and get the treatment done.

In this scenario, would sealing the concrete floor and walls inside the shed with something like DRYLOK work well to keep the moisture out? Thanks!

Advice welcome. EDIT: In Australia if relevant.

Trying to fix an outdoor doorbell/camera into a rendered EPS foam wall. It’s paint over concrete render reinforced by a plastic mesh. Render is about 2mm (1/12 inch) thick. Underneath is about an inch of foam then a hollow timber frame wall. I think there is an insulating sheet somewhere in the mix too.

I can’t find a fixing that will hold in that wall. Unfortunately there are no studs or noggins at the right location for the doorbell to have a good view (and not to look awful).

Not just holding the tiny weight of the doorbell but also to avoid it coming off the wall at a slight bump or if someone leans on it.

What’s the proper way to fix to an EPS render wall when the timber isn’t an option? Thanks!!

I am looking to get a John boat for fishing and duck hunting. I live near a bigger lake but also have a couple river systems I would rather fish. Looking for advice on size and maybe where to find a decent cheap one. I would like to buy old crappy thing and redo it looking to spend like 500$ on the boat itself to give some extra money for adding a deck and trolling motor.

Hi all, good day!

I've been doing a lot of research on motorized TV lifts, and in consultation with our favorite "Friend on the Internet", came to the conclusion I need to get a little footboard to add to a California king adjustable frame.

This footboard will hold a motorized lift in it to both hide the TV / media PC monitor when not in use, act as a real footboard, and most importantly, show the display up close while laying in the bed so my ever-worse vision can see it.

There's a 15 inch Nectar Ultra on top of the frame, combined with a Saatva 3 inch cooling topper. I have a custom U bracket being made to hold everything back on that side to prevent impacting / moving the footboard, and it will be ready this week.

The project will ideally be done in a black brown finish matching the IKEA HEMNES and KOPPANG styles. The television inside will be a 43 inch unit, H22.5xW38xD1.5", with a VESA 200x200mm mount pattern. The lift mechanisms I'm looking at are in the $150-250 range.

What I can't determine is should I go through all the trouble of buying pine wood, measuring everything to spec, painting and assembling it, just to save a few inches at the end of the bed. Or, is there a pre-built cabinet / other furniture with about the space needed for this setup that I can modify a little if needed? Anyone have a similar setup where they can recommend anything?

I believe two owners ago, small shed with electrical for lights was put in as well as a popup outlet for a fountain.

It’s all tied to a GFCI in the master bath, verified since I had to reset it once to get the fountain on. But now nothing outside works, no power to shed or the outlet. GFCI outlet in bathroom still works.

Haven’t done any digging, GFCI never tripped again, no idea where to look. Shed doesn’t have GFCI, just light socket and a plain outlet. As far as I can tell, no fuse or anything special to the fountain outlet other than being heavy duty with a cover.

Where should I look to start solving this issue? I’m comfortable with electrical, just need to be pointed in the right direction on this.

Hey! Hoping to get some thoughts from someone who has experience diy-ing a camping washing machine. I have looked into them before for camping specific purposes, so have an idea on a few types/general mechanics/part sourcing, but am trying to figure out if this will be the best option for this specific purpose.

Context for anyone who's not seen one before: A Mayan hammock is a traditionally woven, gathered end hammock, made up of loosely woven string/cord. https://hamuhk.com/collections/thick-lounger-hammocks

I have a large Mayan hammock that will need a proper wash at some point. Unfortunately the only feasible way to wash it would be manually, and probably have to be done outdoors just to make it easier for drying/preventing any water spillage.

I know the obvious solution would be to handwash in a big bin, but I'm dreading how difficult this thing will be to wrangle wet (it's full cotton and weighs 10-15lb dry...).

I thought a barrel type diy camp washer might be a less labour intensive long term. A rolling barrel type with no internal agitators should (in theory) have minimal risk for tangling, and allow me to both clean and rinse without having to transfer the hammock out of the barrel (just drain the soapy water, add fresh, and roll some more). It's also a project I've wanted to try anyway as I've wanted to make one for camping, or as a less aggressive way to wash large quilts and sleeping bags. I'm just not sure if it's the right project for THIS particular problem.

Has anyone here built their own diy camp/barrel washing machine before? Any pros/cons/advice I should consider before starting? Does this have potential to make the process easier, or am I overthinking?

so I’m making a plasma bottle gun with butane lighters but I can’t find the right lighters. I’ve built one but I can’t fit the current bic easy reach lighters in. Im pretty sure I need to buy the torchblue mini lighters. what would really help is if someone could tell me the outer diameter of their mini torch blue lighter nozzle (metal part). I’m using a 1/4 inner diameter tube but idk if it’s big enough. also any recommendations for the build.

I was thinking conditioner and cornstarch as an option until I read somewhere that that would mold. My only other option is plaster powder, but it might be too heavy. What do you guys think?

Title

So I occasionally do charity giving new refugees work/teaching them diy to build employable skills(used to do trades and moved up in life).

I have a new couple with a newborn baby who were quite desperate so I gave them my long overdue rusty balcony on 5th floor​​ with peeling paint: 30 yr old Industrial paint that is peeling. I'm running out of work to give them and my neighbors don't need immediate work.

Knotted Wire wheels, strip discs, angle grinder, etc..... We've spent two days and barely got 20% done. They look like death and are begging for faster solutions.

Since it's a high rise balcony, sand blasting is out of the picture.

They're open to chemical stripping but im worried about them following proper safety protocol(husband is always removing safety gear ime during work). They don't speak English so sometimes they don't follow instructions perfectly or understand everything. They're young and think they're invulnerable😂.

Worse maybe some of that paint stripper residue somehow gets on their clothes and reaches the baby since they bring him along sometimes(sounds crazy I know but I'd feel aweful).

Any advice? Thinking of doing heat gun or infrared too.

Alternatively I could just convert the rust with a special paint and then just use a universal bonder even though it won't exactly be the most even balcony paint job. ​​​​