For some reason the axel for my pop up tent is about 3 inches too long. They just provided two plastic spacers and two cap things. The cap on one side caught on something and broke, I lost a spacer and a cap. I was thinking of 3d printing replacements?

Any ideas?

The sun visor clip in my 08 TSX broke a couple months ago when I tried to pull out the visor. Kept meaning to get around to making a replacement and finally did today. I pulled the passenger side off and figured out how it mounts in place, it basically just slots in and rotates to lock itself in, so the geometry was super simple.

Modeled it out in Fusion and did a PLA test print, surprisingly it fit perfect the first try. Made a couple changes for more strength and reprinted it in ASA, so it should last quite a while. Pretty happy with this one, especially since it ended up being a quick model and everything fit first try.

Long story short I won this cooler in a raffle at a golf outing (along with 4 bottles of bourbon and some bourbon accessories which is what I was putting my tickets in for). It's a really nice cooler, built like a tank, but the handle is just dumb. It's made to lift the cooler and roll it but as soon as you set it down the handle gentle falls to the ground and is super inconvenient. https://rticoutdoors.com/Ultra-Light-Cooler

So I made a automatic handle holder. Pull the handle up and it clicks into place to prevent it from collapsing back down. Push the handle slightly and it goes back to its stored position. No pressing anything to release, it just kinda works. Snaps on easily, pops off if you don't want it use it. Took me 12 revisions to get it right but it seems to work well. Highly recommend ASA for both the outdoor use and the repeated bending. Mine is using Bambu ABS and after repeated use its still working. Not so much for the PLA version I printed.

Model is on Makerworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3424757-rtic-52qt-cooler-handle-holder-no-manual-release

I always find it cumbersome to use a pipe wrench or adjustable wrench to screw the aerator out of a tap or bach into it, in order to descale it. Which is a frequent thing if you have hard tap water.

This is the solution.

Perlator / Aerator Key (18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28 mm) - MakerWorld

i was working in my garage and couldnt see what was going on across the room. my wife says i need glasses ... i say i need indicator lights.

So i figured out how to get the 3D Print MQTT information, pipe it into my ESP32s and generate an active display per machine complete with a multicolor indicator light.

Cool things can be done with idle hands.

I got too annoyed with using FreeCad because it was too slow to make stuff with and had a lot of stuff I didn't need, and I didn't want to use blender because it's not made for 3d printing so I made my own tool for making things to 3D print! I'm genuinely proud of how it came out, and it makes a lot of sense to me how to use it but that's probably because I built it

Made a little slide-on stylus holder for a Joy-Con so I can use touchscreen controls and physical buttons with one hand.

I posted about it last night, but here's a GIF of it in action! Got it working Windows-wide today, so I can finally show off something other than RuneScape :)

STL: https://reopenscad.com/shared/883a429172f018d75b08c53cb77786ef

I’ve been building this little ESP32 sports scoreboard for a while, and once I got the electronics/software working I realized I had another problem: it needed to actually look and feel like one device instead of a dev board sitting on my desk.

So I started designing an enclosure around the ESP32-S3/display board and an internal LiPo battery.

The screen needed to sit cleanly in the front, I still needed access to USB-C for charging and the physical buttons, and I wanted the whole thing to stay small enough that you can just pick it up in one hand.

There were a lot more tiny fit/tolerance changes than I expected, but I’m pretty happy with where it ended up. The translucent white print also lets some of the LEDs from the board bleed through the sides, which I originally didn’t plan on but ended up really liking.

Still tweaking the design, but it finally feels like one little finished object instead of a pile of electronics.

I also put the current .3mf in the project repo in case anyone using the same board wants to mess with it.

Bought a screen to modernize my Volvo without removing the original stereo. Needed an adapter between the vent mount (generic) and screen

My filament lives in 4 L KICHLY cereal boxes on a shelf, lid facing out. Each lid gets a little slide-in holder for a swatch card (colour, temp, flow, date), so I can find a spool without opening anything.

Gluing 22 of them by eye looked bad, so I made a guide that presses onto the lid:

• rigid wall on one side, spring feet on the other, so it grips with no side play
• deep posts at the end so it cannot slide along the lid
• "+" shaped window, so the holder can go either way

Press it on, glue the holder, drop it in, lift the guide off. It took 8 versions: the first ones rode up on the rounded lid edge and slid around, and one was sized from a bad caliper reading and did not fit at all.

Files (free, CC BY-NC): https://makerworld.com/en/models/3415636-swatch-lid-holder-glue-guide-kichly-4l-dry-box (also on Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1871090-swatch-card-lid-holder-glue-guide-for-kichly-4-l-c)

Printed in PLA on a Centauri Carbon 2, about 35 min for the guide and 11 min per holder.

CleatGrid is a modular printed plate that hooks onto a standard 3/4" plywood French cleat. It has a 20 mm grid of pockets. Blocks peg into the grid and screw in from behind with #6 screws. The square pegs stop them rotating, so the holder is rock solid.

In the photos:

- Ryobi jigsaw: lip ledge + one ledge

- Ryobi crown stapler: lip ledge + two upright stops

- Hand tools: hammer fork + 6-screwdriver rack on a short 12x5 plate

Everything prints without supports. The starter set is a lip ledge, two ledges, a hammer fork and a driver rack. CC BY, with STLs and a sliced P1S 3MF.

I'd like to hear what tools you'd want blocks for next.

Simple yet functional neck protector for my guitar stand to replace the shitty ones that started disintegrating and kept falling off.

Printed on Qidi Q1 Pro using TPU 85A (absolute nightmare to print with).

Made this pass through enclosure that has dual strain relief and holds a generic wago 3 pos and uses any flat hd #6-8 screw

The original one was in PP and none of the glue I own worked :(

Here the STL if you need one for your headset: https://www.printables.com/model/1869509-corsair-hs35-v2-headband-replacement