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After taking my '91 YJ Perkins turbo diesel on its first long drive, I stopped by the junkyard where I originally rescued it over 12 years ago and snapped a few pictures of its brothers resting in peace.

Unfortunately, these two Wranglers, one orange and the other white, weren't as lucky. Nobody ever came to their rescue, and their condition has continued to deteriorate. Now they sit slowly rusting away peacefully.

The earlier pictures were taken earlier this year. I returned recently for a second visit, and this is how I found them.

It's bittersweet knowing that my YJ once sat in the same place, waiting for a second chance.

Super fun but long day in the rain. Not your typical AZ day or trail. Good times.

Byron Hurd of r/TheDrive found out why Jeep Wrangler 2 doors never came with a V8.

90k miles manual bone stock apparently. Tell me why I shouldn't jump in this

Edit! A lot of helpful people have let me know that it shifts smother and is easier on the gears when you sift into 4-low while going 1-3 mph… Thank you kind people for stopping by!!!

Hello,
Recently my 2021 2-door JL rubicon does not want to go into 4-low. It goes in and out of 4-high no problem at all. When I go to switch to 4 low (in neutral completely stopped level-levelish ground when testing this not wheeling) it grinds and sometimes it will jump into 4 low but then taking it out, it grinds back into Tcase neutral and grinds back into 4 high. I can really feel it it the shifter like when it jumps it’s a really loud bang. So basically it bangs and grinds. There wasn’t a specific event that caused this to happen. No hard wheeling, never forced it into 4 low, no one drove it besides me, and I never had any issues before. I haven’t messed with it too much bexause I don’t want to screw up my transfer case. I don’t want to take it to the dealership for obvious reasons. Does anyone have any suggestions/diagnoses?
Thank you for taking the time to read this.

Need help identifying this Jeep transmission. Everything tells me it's a Borg-warner T14 but I can't find anything on a side-shift varient of a T14, only top-loaders.

Curious if any of the old-school jeep guys have any idea of what it is.

The 1st picture is the transmission right-side up. Top cover definitely looks like the same pattern as a T10. Took the cover off and verified it's side shifted

2nd picture is the part number on the case

3rd picture is the part number on the tail housing.

Hoping to verify the varient so I can rebuild it (I rebuild old transmissions as a hobby/for fun) and get in the hands of someone who needs one.

Thanks everyone!

One of my friends is thinking about getting one he is wondering if there’s anything he should be on the look out for or if it’s gonna be reliable in the long run. The one he’s looking at has 96k miles on it.

The final Twelve 4 Twelve Special Edition is now out. Robert S. Miller of r/MoparInsiders.com gives us the COMPLETE preview of the 2027 Jeep Wrangler Switchback.

Got my first jeep over the weekend and looking to protect it while not in use. I don’t drive most days and live in mid MI looking for a full cover for a four door Wrangler to protect against mostly sun/rain but don’t mind all year coverage just in case.

Was looking at SealSkin and Quadtec but reviews always seem split. Any specific recommendations or avoids?

Any who have the 26 Cherokee Hybrid or even the Grand Cherokee, I’m sure you’re having CarPlay issues like me. It cuts out like crazy like an old CD skipping. No software update or anything would fix it. It’s been annoying the hell out of me. I have an old CarPlay dongle laying around that I used for my old car. I thought, let me try that and see if it’s any better. It’s been a whole day, and it hasn’t skipped or cut out once! I know it’s a bandaid that shouldn’t be needed but it works!

Nevertheless, I’m highly irritated with Jeep’s uconnect system. My wife’s 23 compass doesn’t have these issues…

I have had so many damn issues this car (2020 jeep compass). bought it two years ago with 89,000 miles and needed a 90k maintenance check that was like 3 bands (insurance covered most) but like new brake pads and some other shit that should have been fixed before i bought the car.

now today leaving the commissary either my transmission or diff is fucked. driving and then stopping and putting it in park something is still spinning. having it in drive, when i turn the wheel there’s loud clanking nears underneath, barely drives forward.

im in the army about to go to the field tomorrow but a towing truck is going to take it to a shop today.

Wanted to know y’all’s advice on how to get rid of this piece of shit i never want to buy another jeep. should i let someone steal it or total so i get an insurance payout. or see how much it is to fix everything and try to sell it after it’s fixed. i just want to get rid of this car and get a honda or something relatable.

would appreciate responses thank you!

Part: https://www.baxterperformanceusa.com/pentastar-32l-and-36l-2014-to-present-ms-201-bk-cartridge-to-spin-on-adapter

2018 Jeep JLU, 3.6 pentastar

Okay. I installed this thing carefully following the instructions. After installing it and cranking the engine, I shut it down. Checked the dipstick. Was very low, I barely reading any oil. I added oil until the dipstick had a normal reading. Not a crazy amount but I didn't measure it, obviously. I would say less than a quart.

Shortly thereafter, after driving about 15 to 20 minutes, engine blew oil everywhere out of the top of the engine. I'm not sure what gasket blew, but I'm guessing the oil cooler or possibly the factory oil filter assembly that the Baxter thing screws into.

The assembly video did not say to add oil, but I felt like adding oil until a normal dipstick reading is sort of common sense. The guy on the video said something about the low oil reading being " your new normal reading."

So first of all, you all can laugh at me if you will. It's obviously extremely frustrating. Jeep is at the shop. Visually, I couldn't tell where exactly the oil came from, but it blew out pretty much all of its oil. I don't think there's engine damage, as the vehicle was shut down immediately when this happened. I'm very lucky the thing didn't catch on fire.

Secondly, any comments here? Anyone have any advice as to what you think may have gone wrong? Thank you.

Lately I’ve been looking into a new hybrid SUV(my current CR-V is great, but doesn’t have AWD). Did a test drive of the RAV4 and Forester. Felt the usual criticisms. The RAV4 felt cheap. The Subaru infotainment is rough on a new car.

It’s hard to find any reviews whatsoever about the new hybrid Cherokee. So question is…if you’ve bought one, how do you like it? How’s early reliability?

My new to me Cherokee Elite keeps throwing on the CEL. Failed emissions when I got it and they told me it was P1CEA, boost side EVAP purge system.

Most recently, a certified Jeep dealership had it for two weeks. When I first took it in, they did all this work and said the code was “stored”. The tech ran it multiple cycles and it didn’t come on.

I drove it three days and the CEL came back on. What should I tell them next? I’ve been the owner of this car about 100 days, and it’s spent 30 of those in shop so far.

Hi all,

I have a Grand Cherokee 2019 where the ESC light comes on right after start, and after about 10 minutes of driving the Service 4WHL Drive light comes on.

3.6 V6 Engine

134k Miles

Took it to the dealer, they said not sure, error codes tell them there is an electrical under Volt somewhere. Went ahead and replaced the battery. No change in behavior. Dealer not sure how to proceed, doesn't want to fix.

I guess next steps are to get the error code and my multi-meter, some electrical diagrams and start investigating.

If anyone else has had this issue please advise.
Error code descriptions from the manual -

—Electronic Stability Control (ESC) Active Warning Light — If Equipped This warning light will indicate when the Electronic Stability Control system is Active. The “ESC Indicator Light” in the instrument cluster will come on when the ignition is placed in the ON/RUN or ACC/ON/RUN position, and when ESC is activated. It should go out with the engine running. If the “ESC Indicator Light” comes on continu ously with the engine running, a malfunction has been detected in the ESC system. If this warning light remains on after several ignition cycles, and the vehicle has been driven several miles (kilometers) at speeds greater than 30 mph (48 km/h), see an authorized dealer as soon as possible to have the problem diagnosed and corrected. • The “ESC Off Indicator Light” and the “ESC Indicator Light” come on momentarily each time the ignition is placed in the ON/RUN or ACC/ON/RUN position. • The ESC system will make buzzing or clicking sounds when it is active. This is normal; the sounds will stop when ESC becomes inactive. • This light will come on when the vehicle is in an ESC event

Service 4WD Warning Light — If Equipped This warning light will illuminate to signal a fault with the 4WD system. If the light stays on or comes on during driving, it means that the 4WD system is not functioning properly and that service is required. We recommend you drive to the nearest service center and have the vehicle serviced immediately

Thanks all,

Chris

Sorry for the long post - I'm giving a lot of info to hopefully answer any questions

So I finally got back in the audio game of chasing sonic nirvana!!  A sick mom and being a dad took up my time the last 8 yrs.  
Now that I had SOME spare time, I decided to start on the project of creating a 'rolling studio' in my '16 Jeep Wrangler (impossible task, I know)
It took about a year from start to finish - from coming up with a design plan, the desired outcome, the factory speaker locations and then the
choices of all the gear to be used. I bought the Jeep new with the upgraded Alpine audio pkg (not bad at all) - top dash speakers, knee panel speakers,
soundbar speakers and the sub was mounted in the rear cargo floor.  I didn't want to mount the amps under my seats because honestly I like looking at audio gear.
So after some research, I found out that the Wranglers that didn't come with the Alpine system/floor sub came with a nice cargo tray that could be a perfect place to start.
All door panels, the soundbar and the floor was heavily treated with KillMat and Resonix Mega quares.

For my source, I didnt want a screen, too distracting, I just wanted clean audio. I chose the Alpine UTE-73BT. As an 'old-head' audio guy I knew I wanted
a quality dash EQ, not a DSP.  I listen to everything from horribly produced black metal to incredibly produced stuff like Lil' Durk and everything in between.
I know you can get diff profiles on a DSP but my preference is knobs that I can tweak instantly so a Memphis EQL7 was used plus it's got an 8v output.
I decided on 2 JL Amps - an RD400/4 for the speakers and a RD500/1 for the sub - because of their quality, effiency, their size and their price. For the most important part,
the speakers, I went with an all Dynaudio setup.  I absolutely love their performance and their clarity and transparency. For the sub, a JL Audio 10w6v2
in a custom 1.15cu ft enclosure was chosen because, well, it's 1 of the best sounding subwoofers ever and didn't require a gigantic enclosure.  From there I created 3-D Printed
Amp risers so the amps would get a lot airflow underneath.  An SMD ground block and a Sky High fused dist. block fit the bill. Sky High 4gauge for the power and then
8 gauge to each amp. It has 2 seperate Sky High 2/0 AWG grounds - 1 at the battery and 1 under the amp rack that mounts to the chassis. All Sky High RCA's.

I couldn't be more pleased with the outcome!! It sounds absolutely incredible at low volume or high volume and will NOT fatigue your ears! Let me know what you guys think!

The gear list:
Alpine UTE-73BT
Memphis EQL-7
Dynaudio Esotan 212 6.5 comp set (tweets in dash - mids in the knee panels)
Dynaudio Esotan 212C 6.5 coaxials in the soundbar.
JL Audio RD400/4
JL Audio RD500/1
JL Audio 10W6v2 in a custom 1.15cu ft sealed enclosure (Inferno Audio Enclosures)
Trail Seven factory amp bypass harness