My front axle CV Joint is starting to fail on my 2019 JLRU with 118,000 miles. I called TeraFlex on Sept 22, and they told me that part was out of stock for three weeks. Now I called them back today (10/12) and they told me three to four more weeks before it's back in stock.

Seems like everybody just drop-ships from the manufacturer these days. Called eight different shops and they were all "out of stock".

Does anybody carry this part on their shelves? Does anybody NOT drop-ship anymore?

JL/JT: Factory Replacement CV Joint Kit - High-Angle Rzeppa

SKU 1745000

Anyone here tried to put the 2018+ JL roll bar covers on a 2 door? Did it work? Did you have to modify it?

If I put a battery tender on my 2025 wrangler’s main battery will it also keep the supplemental start/stop battery charged?
Thanks

Grocery store sushi and a Clearly Canadian on the stock fender of my '26 JLU Sport.

My JKU has left me stranded 4 times now in the last 5 years. This one might be the last straw!!! I’ve owned it since new when I bought it in 2012, and it’s got 190 K on it. And every time it fails it’s something that I need to get a tow for. Luckily today it died on the way to the trail and not on the trail. I’m just tired of wondering if it’s gonna leave me stranded and I won’t be able to get home. This is the fourth Wrangler I’ve owned and all of them have left me stranded at some point. I guess I’m venting, but half wondering if I need to switch to something like a Toyota. I had a Toyota 4Runner 20 years ago, that never left me stranded in the 200,000 miles I put on it. The 4Runner definitely couldn’t get me to some of the trails that I’ve done in the Jeep but what’s the point if you can’t make it home? I don’t know, I’m just frustrated. My current Wrangler, I’ve replaced the engine, the clutch twice, and transmission. Again today it was transmission or clutch related, and the last clutch only has 3000 miles on it. So could’ve been a part failure. That being said, in my 4Runner, I never even did a clutch and it had 200 K on it. And to top it off right now is the best time to be wheeling in Colorado. All the colors are changing and the trails are perfect. The season is almost over and I have no rig. Thanks for listening! I hope everyone enjoys the weekend!

UPDATE:

So an update to the failure if anyone is interested. The shop called and said they figured it out today. There’s a hydraulic line that runs to the clutch. That is the failure point. It’s not releasing fluid back into the clutch when the clutch gets let back out, is the way the mechanic explained it. The line itself is on national backorder apparently. And I’m probably two weeks out from getting the repair done. But my shop is covering all costs. And they figured it out because they had to do four clutches in someone else’s Jeep before they figured out what was happening. So I guess the clutch isn’t getting hydraulic fluid and then it burns it up which is why it didn’t fail right away and took about 3000 miles for it to fail. They said the other client it took 10,000 miles and he went through four clutches in those 10,000 miles.

Anyone know offhand what size screws are used for mounting a sun visor on a 2011-2017 JK? Part number of visor is 6CJ08DX9AA. Mopar is not really helping.

Where have you guys had the best luck selling? I live in northern Virginia and may be looking to sell my old friend but worry mods will make it worth less than it probably should be.

2022 Diesel JLUR

Last week I was left stranded by a broken tie rod around midnight. Luckily the wheels were pointed towards the curb and I was only going 30 at the time. I was about 100 yards from getting on the highway and would have been going 70 MPH about two minutes later. Could have been catastrophic and it has me a little shaken.

6-speed manual (original clutch) with 172K. I’ve put over $7,000 into the Jeep in the last few months to replace the radiator, fix multiple oil leaks and other routine repairs. The ABS module need to be replaced if the part ever becomes available.

So do I ride it out or make a move?

There are pretty big rebates and discounts on 2026s but I don’t really trust a Stellantis product right now.

Pulled the steering wheel on a 98 TJ to replace the clock spring. All that seemed to have gone easily enough. My question is about reinstalling the steering wheel. I see the groove above and see a tongue that matches inside the steering wheel. Assuming that after lining them up and making sure the clock spring "tabs" fit around the flat surfaces on the back of the steering wheel, it should be "tight" - i.e. I shouldn't expect to be able to simply slide the steering wheel all the way in without using the retaining nut to help get it back in place?

Looking for feedback before I start tightening that nut back up!

TIA!

I mostly drive my JLR on the weekends and have no issues until last week. I have just over 60,000 miles and needed to drive it to work one day. As I just passed my local dealer’s lot, and was pulling up to a stop light the Jeep just died. I was able to get it to start back up and it’s idle was rough and seemed to be running low. As soon as I gave it some gas it died. It did this two other times and on the next attempt it just cranked for 20 seconds. After several minutes I was able to get it to start and pulled off the highway and then again was able to whip it around to pull into the dealers lot. No check engine light was on, and when I spoke to the dealer they moved it to check it in, no lights or issues were showing themselves. I am waiting on them to check to see if any codes have been stored. After some internet searching this sounds like it could be a VVT issue. Do they just suddenly appear? I have not heard any knocking/tapping previously except right after starting when I drive it after it sits all week. It has shaken my faith in its reliability and obviously concerned it is going to just die when making a trip.
Forgot to add: It is a 3.6 ETorque

It's been way too long and finally dug into trying to figure out what this rattle sound is. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Situation:

• Sounds like it is coming from front passenger wheel well
• Occurs when accelerating only
• Sound does not change based on speed or rotation of wheels
• Sounds like metal on metal
• Happens more on lower RPMs and uphill

Things I've done that didn't solve

• Removed front bumper and drove around
• Tightened all lug nuts
• Banged on exhaust with mallet to find noise
• Checked heat shields

I figured it was time to ask some experts

2015 jeep wrangler JKU - Long story short, my engine is being replaced next week due to a ticking noise that I have had for the past six months after buying a Jasper engine. But two days ago I pulled into work and the vehicle at idle is violently shaking. Almost sounds like it wants to shut off now if I put it in drive and give it gas it runs fine but at idle just on and off shaking. The past week or so I noticed a air or weird wind hissing noise sounding like it was coming from the passenger side glove box. I did pop the hood and check all of my vacuum lines and stuff but I didn't see anything wrong. With my limited searching on Google somebody said there is a vacuum line under the battery tray? Does anyone know anything about this with that cause my vehicle to shake like that? I'm not popping a check engine light or anything. Well the mechanic would probably figure all this out when putting the new engine in I really need my vehicle for the next week hoping it's a simple fix

Hey everyone,

Got a 2025 2-door Wrangler with the factory soft top (~10k km).

Lately, when I run it in "safari mode" (windows off, top closed), the front latches don't line up easily with the windshield header. The left side is a bit misaligned and I have to push down/forward pretty hard on the frame to get the hooks to catch, and unlatching it to fold it back also takes way more effort than with windows on.

The moment I put the side and rear windows back in, the tension pulls everything into place and it latches/unlatches smoothly.

Is this normal body/frame flex when the rear tension from the windows is gone, or is something in my folding mechanism binding up?

Thanks!

I'm at the end of my rope here.

Edit: 05 Rubicon with an automatic

Cylinder 2 has compression, I've replaced the plugs with Autolite Iridiums, ditched the coil rail for the Viper coil mod with brand new wires, it has a new PCM. The only thing I haven't replaced is the fuel injectors, but a bad/weak fuel injector shouldn't be causing unburned fuel to end up in the cat, right? The only other things that could possibly cause this problem would cause it to skip, not run, or run poorly and it runs like its brand new.

Lately my jeep has been running at 5/8 to 3/4 of the temp gage. It's only on heavy load or up inclines. But it's never thrown a code. I just flushed and replaced the coolant and it didn't help. It's running on 35's. My serpentine belt hasn't been changed, going to do that next, maybe it's slipping?

Looking at swapping out the factory metal Rubicon bumper (JLUR) for the Expedition One trail series - if the S2s as reverse lights do half as good of a job as the XL80Rs on my front bumper do, I'd like to upgrade for that alone (but I also miss having rear shackle points).

I know it's recommended to buy extra sensor bezels, but overall, how was your experience installing one of these? I'll probably order it in bare metal and have a local shop do the powdercoating, they did an excellent job on my ARB front because ARB apparently can't ship a powdercoated bumper without major gouges in the finish, but that's a story for another time...

What say ye, worth the hassle or not?