Started a week ago, I pinged my phone, and I'm getting a response, but for some reason they won't connect with Womic. The firewall allows them. I've deleted, reinstalled, and installed new/old versions. Absolutely nothing works. I have no clue what to do whatsoever, and it's VERY annoying.

Im connecting with wifi and ive tried USB.

I dropped some melted icecream onto my pc case and luckily it seems to have only gotten inside the back part, where all the wires and my PSU are at. It mainly pooled down onto the bottom of the case and so I cleaned most of it with a clean shirt but I’m worried about the PSU.

It seems to have landed directly on top of it and the PSU has small openings on the top, it also fell onto the side where you connect the cables, some did get inside so I disconnected all the cables and laid my PSU so that any liquid inside the ports would fall out, but I’m unsure if there is any liquid inside the actual PSU. How long should I let it dry?

My pc was turned off at the time and the PSU is the corsair 1000w, if that matters.

While I still get audio when it comes to things like videos, I notice that my notifications sounds aren't working. I went into my system settings and made sure I had sounds selected, but even when i click to preview the playback, I hear nothing. Why are they not playing? How can I fix this?

(My OS is Bazzite. This is regarding the Desktop Mode's (as opposed to the Game Mode) notification sounds)

Hi all - I have 2 Dell U2520D monitors. The laptop is connected to the first monitor via a USBC. Then I use DP out to daisy chain the first monitor to the second (DP IN). They duplicate each other but aren’t detected as separate monitors.

Here’s the weird part, if I flip around my system and connect my laptop to the monitor on the other side via usb c and just change my cord from DP in to out and similar on the other monitor, then it starts to work.(I.e. I flip connection to the other side). Isn’t that weird? I can’t figure this out for the life of me.

Hi there,
first: I'm new to the PC building rabbit hole. I just got an old PC for free and thought i could experiment with local AI on it... Now I'm desperately  trying to get a Tesla P40 running… this is how far (not) i have come:

Problem: Tesla P40 not booting with power connected

Setup

• ASRock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 5 2600 (no iGPU)
• be quiet! Pure Power 11 500 W
• GT 710 for video output, Tesla P40 (used) as the second card
• Ubuntu 22.04, NVIDIA driver 470 for the GT 710
• P40 came with a power adapter cable (EPS 8-pin on the card side)

What fails

• P40 installed with the power cable: no video signal at the GT 710 and the Caps Lock LED doesn’t respond. Only a hard shutdown works. The hang appears to happen before the OS loads (during POST).

What I’ve checked

• Power cable: EPS 8-pin connector measured with a multimeter, 4 pins at 12 V and 4 pins at ground, as expected.
• Slots: cards swapped between both PCIe x16 slots, same result.
• Above 4G Decoding: tried both enabled and disabled (the setting persisted after reboot, so it isn’t being reset).
• PCIe link speed: forced to Gen3, no change.
• Wait time: waited up to 3 minutes, no change.
• CSM: disabled.
• BIOS versions tried during the session: P1.50, 10.70, 5.60 and 10.43 (the latest one in use), all without the P40 working. The P40-with-power test was only done on the current version.
• Tried a diffrent old NVDIA GPU in combination with the GT 710 -> both identified by thesystem but no Video output on the old GPU (guess because the driver was missing)

What works

• P40 installed without the power cable: the PC boots, Ubuntu starts, and lspci lists 0a:00.0 3D controller: NVIDIA GP102GL [Tesla P40].

Are there any BIOS settings I'm missing? Does anyone have experience with the P40 in a similar system?

Two months ago my Legion Y540-17IRH (Type 81Q4) laptop (pushing 9 years old) suddenly began to frequently bluescreen, and then i attempted a bios update. This bios update said it had failed, and since then the screen has never seemed to been able to receive power. I was having trouble shortly before this as well, as in sudden system freezes. During many of these freezes, if there was audio output at the time of the freeze, there would be a buzzing noise, which i'm pretty sure was the last single piece of sound that was outputting at the time of the system freeze. I would check the event viewer afterwards to look for abnormalities and it would say kernel something. I think it may also be important to note that, in the laptops current state, Fn + Spacebar cycles through the keyboard lights as it should.

here are the things i have tried, none of which worked:

• replace the thermal paste
• replace/test the ram sticks
• disconnect the main battery and rtc battery
• erase and rewrite the bios
• disconnect/reattach the internal display cable
• test the display on a tv using an hdmi cable (showed "no signal")

Other things that might be important:

• the main battery is likely unable to hold residual power due to old age (the laptop could not run without being plugged in beforehand)
• the power button led, keyboard led, and back legion logo led (when the internal display cable is attached) all turn on immediately after plugging in my laptop
• when the main battery is disconnected, the power button led flashes
• when the main battery is connected, the power button led is constant
• when i hold the power button after the lights come on on plug-in, the laptop seems to turn off (the lights turn off)
• after i hold the power button down to turn it off, if i press it again, that button's led stays lit (or flashes if the battery is disconnected), but the keyboard lights come on briefly before turning off
• when i plug in the laptop, the fans spin for about 5 seconds before turning off
• the laptop had no malware before these issues
• the interior has no clear burn marks anywhere at all
• all 3 usb ports receive power

Please, if anyone knows what could be causing this, let me know!

Hi,

I recently got some bone conduction headphones (ifecco x7) and have managed to add chapters of an audiobook to their built in memory however it is playing out of order and I cant figure out why. I have named all the files with just a number at the start so when ordered by name they are sequential however when using the headphones they playback all over the place(chapter 25, 26, 33, 29, 22, 37).

The headphones have a random and sequential mode. Random is truly random but the sequential mode always plays the same order of out of order chapters. I added the files from my mac and figured it was because of that, but tried changing the files around from my Windows laptop and I am still having the same issue.

Wondering if anyone has experienced something similar?

My keyboard will be normal then suddenly it will start spazzing out and when I click a key such as typing my name it doesn’t type the letters it starts like doing commands and stuff.

Every weekday morning at 6:55am, a time I would never need to wake up, an alarm is going off on my iPhone 12.

The alarm is just as a regular one set in the clock app, except there is no alarm set in there.

IT IS NOT:
- in my clock app (I deleted all alarms except my daily one, and that is clear too there’s no reminder for it or wrong time zone etc)
- a bedtime set on my phone (I haven’t set one)
- from my health app (I’ve never even used the app it still shows the welcome page if I open it)
- a reminder set with an alarm (I have one reminder that is for 10pm daily with NO alarm)

The only information I possibly have is that it only goes off on weekdays, and I was drunk one Saturday and accidentally deleted my usual daily alarm without realising & the problem has persisted since then. This is despite deleting all alarms, creating ONE new daily alarm, checking all apps, scouring the internet.

Please help me everyone I know thinks this is funny but I promise it’s not

Comrades, I need some help! I don’t know much about hardware and stuff, and something really unfortunate happened to me yesterday.

My ASUS Vivobook 16X K305 SHUT DOWN OUT OF NOWHERE and hasn’t turned back on no matter what I do. :(

I’ve already tried a bunch of things, including different reset and BIOS key combinations, turning it on with and without the charger plugged in (the battery was fully charged before it shut down), opening it up and cleaning the fan, and even disconnecting the battery to see if I could get it to turn on using only the charger. Nothing has worked so far.

It’s getting a little old, I’ve had it for 2–3 years, I can imagine that a lot of this might be due to me not taking the best care of it.

I don’t know much about hardware, so I figured I could just use it for a few years until it eventually died peacefully in its sleep.

BUT IT WAS TOO SOON 😭

This actually happened once last year, and it miraculously came back to life after a day, but the same miracle hasn’t happened this time.

Does anyone have any ideas? I’m thinking it might be the motherboard, but I’d really like to try fixing it before taking it to a repair shop.

I have a PC connected to an LED wall running ProPresenter. My monitor is the main display, and the LED wall is the second display.

Sometimes, when I open certain programs, they open on the LED wall instead of my main monitor.

Is there any way to make all programs open on the main display by default?

I have a client that uses a third party web app that needs to run in IE Mode in Edge to correctly function. Client runs an on prem domain.

When files are downloaded from this web app (word, excel, pdf, msg, eml) they auto open in a new Edge tab.

If I download a file from a webiste or system that is not in IE Mode (via Edge), the files download and open in their default application (set in Windows Settings).

Are there specific settings that need to be adjusted for IE Mode downloads so that they too open in the devices default set applications?

Thanks in advance :)

Hello, im reaching a bit of a desperation poin right now, i've tried to ask in other sub reddits too but no where i found an answer, i at this point imma ask here too, guys, please, does anyone know, why connecting a controller to the game makes the fps drop substantially? i can barely scrap 100 frames sometimes dipping below 60....

here is the setup

Ryzen 7 9800x3D
Arctic liquid freezer III PRO 360
RX 9070 XT
32 GB of ram DDR5
MSI MPG CARBON X870-E
Corsair RM1000W PLATINUM

and im trying to play with a dualsense edge, before you ask, no, i tried with 3 other dualsense's and nothing worked, the game still goes down, i also seen a wattage drop from the usual 330w to dips into the 185...

I need working GeForce Experience files if anyone still has that, not Nvidia App, sending the files over would mean a lot to me 😊

hello i have no idea how to ask for NVIDIA support on reddit i hope im in right place

this is my question

i currently rolled back NVIDIA GPU version from version 617.42 to 617.14

it was laggy but it doesnt matter.

my question is that, after rolling back, the version 617.42 still takes space in my disk since i had 65GB, after rolling back to 617.14 i have 58GB

so real question is, IF i wait for another new version of NVIDIA drivers to come out, and express install clean installation. will it wipe version 617.14 and 617.42 driver files with NEXT version thats coming out and clean the storage? i know 7GB might not be much but i have alot files i need to download again and again and i cant spare any GB like that

Hello, me and my wife are both playing WoW forever Beta, and I get these huge lagspikes, sometimes lasting seconds, even up to 30 seconds.. my wife, who is sitting next to me, has no problems at all. We both are on the same WIFI. I play on a ASUS TUF Gaming A17 laptop from 2023, and she plays on a brand new Lenovo Legion (can't recall the exact model) I've checked my drivers and they are up to date. Our provider is Starlink, and apart from us gaming, there should be no more bandwidth in use. Anyone who knows what could be going on? Thanks!

For whatever reason instead of only showing up when i am trying to install something or give something permissions on my pc i get the “do you want this app to make changes to your device” EVERY SINGLE time i open ANY app, and certain apps will just give me the notification every once in a while (especially medal.tv). the slider in the user account control app basically does not have any customization options besides all notifications or no notifications and even setting it to no notifications does not fix it. this is annoying especially since these notifications can crash games and ive been playing far cry recently and the ubisoft launcher fully signs you out every time you close the game. i dont want to fully disable UAC because it is useful but this is just ridiculous. there is no reason it should be asking me whether or not i want to give permissions for an app i already said yes to and have not closed.

I've got Win 11, it's up to date
Motherboard Z790 Aorus Elite AX, BIOS recently updated with all other drivers.
CPU is i9 14900 KF, the thermal paste was recently applied. The heat situation as the same as it was before crashes.
RTX 4090 - well, no issues detected here.
I got 128 GB RAM.

Everything was fine for like a year since I started using this PC, then recently a lot of games started crashing or freezing with different errors related to memory access. Then I also started getting more frequent BSODs.
Here are the most recent minidumps, from windows to games: https://app.mediafire.com/folder/stcucrljvn8oa
Honestly no clue what to do.

Screens went black while the computer was idling in the menu of a game. Motherboard which is a 'tuf gaming b650e-e wifi, signaled DRAM orange led.

Tried one stick of ram, no luck. Tried the other stick. No luck.

Got a new motherboard, the asus b650e. Manufactured 2026-05 (should support 9800x3d without flashback). Black screen. Chassis fans spin for a moment when power on but shut off soon after. Reseated everything except the CPU.

What could it be? Where do I go from here?

I've had this wired mouse for about 3 years without any problems, but recently it has started to freeze out of nowhere.

When it freezes, typically half of the LED lights turn off and the whole mouse becomes unresponsive. It only starts to work again after I unplug it and plug it back in. This happens in any of the USB ports that I plug it into.

Could the mouse just be broken, or is it a known software problem linked to SteelSeries GG?

Any help is appreciated, even if you just suggest what could be the problem. Thanks!

As the Title says, I need Help Routing Sound Between 2 PCs.

Both PCs Will be on Doing 1 of 2 Things.
1 will be Gaming and 2 Will Be Streaming and Recording.

So Far I've been doing this with AIs help but It is no longer cutting it.

With AI I set up a Sound Matrix that allows me to switch between the PCs for the Sole Purpose of being able to pick which I'd stream and work on.

I play games, Edit Video, Render 3D Object, Develop Images From Scratch (with and without AI), sometimes I code, I Daytrade. I do ALOT on Both PCs in a Day!

To the Point, My Matrix Keeps Breaking. Today, I switched my Streaming PC to PC1 so I can work with PC 2.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is What My VMB Profile Looks Like for Both PCs:

Profiles For Gaming On PC 2 And Str/Rec On PC1

PC1:

Stereo Input 1: Mic (Blue Yeti)

Stereo Input 2: Mic (High Def) (I think Blue Port On Back Of PC)

Stereo Input 3: VB Audio Cable B (For XB Game Bar & Discord)

VM input: A1

VM AUX Input: A1 & A2

A1: Headphones (Via Jack On Top Of PC)

A2: HD60 Pro (Via The HDMI Out From PC2 Into PC1)

PC2:

Stereo Inputs : N/A

V Input Paths :

VM input - A1

VM AUX input - A2

A1: Speakers (Realtek)

A2: HD60 Pro (HDMI From PC1)

Profiles For Gaming On PC 1 and Str/Rec On PC2

PC1:

Stereo input 1: Mic (Blue yeti) A3 & B1

Stereo Input 2: Mic (Via Line In or Pink Port On Back Of PC) A1

Stereo Input 3: VB Cable B (Virtual Cable For XB Game Bar/ Discord) A1

VM:

VM input: A1
VM AUX input: A1 & A2

A1: Headphones (Top Of PC)
A2: HD60 P(HDMI)
A3: Speakers High Def. (Line Out On Back Of PC)

PC2:

Stereo Inputs : N/A

V Input Paths :

VM input - A1

VM AUX input - A2

A1: Speakers (Realtek)

A2: HD60 Pro (HDMI From PC1)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

As you can see it's a big ole mess. From this Setup I can go to OBS and Path audio Like This:

PC1:

Game Track (1): HD60P

Main Mic Track (2): Yeti (USB Connection)

Party Audio Track (3): VB Cable B

PC2:

Game Track (1): HD60 P

Main Mic Track (2): Blue Yeti (Mic In - Pink Port)

Party Audio Track (3): VB Cable B

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Right now, OBS isn't hearing PC 2 when it should with the above settings set and correctly verified. I can see PC2, I can Hear PC 2, OBS can See PC2, OBS Can't Hear PC2.

I'd Like to switch whenever I want without something breaking. Any Advice/help would be much appreciated!

Before I Forget, I have My Windows Settings Set...

Gaming on PC1:

PC1 Win Output Device: VM input
PC2 Win Output Device: Speakers RT

Gaming On PC2:

Both PCs Win Output Device: VM Input

I think that's All I got. If there is something Missing and I'm forgetting it. Please Mention it!

I've spent Probably 4 1/2 Months Setting this up and figuring out the inner workings. If you got questions, nicely ask and I'll respond!

Sry For the Read.

TL:DR One Of My PCs Can See My Other PC, but it Can't hear it. I'm Using Voicemeeter Banana x64 application in combination with VB Audio Cable A+B and Default.

Edit 1: Thank You to everyone who has posted so far! I've been recommended a few options I am currently looking into. So far it's between a Sound Card + Rerouting What I've got, Getting A new Audio Interface/Mixer, and Continuing to diagnose the problem currently.

Edit 2: (Keep Posting so we can help others too! / Keep Posting So the best solution to this problem is known!)

EDIT 3 (FINAL EDIT): I Figured it out!:)

SO, In order for this setup to work~ it technically already does. I remembered That I streamed a while ago and everything was working correctly, that's because NOTHING Changed!

Also Steam Games and Non-Steam Games Work Differently when applying their sound! ALL games by default dump their audio onto the devices Default Audio Output. They did just that but my PC1 wasn't picking up the audio of the game from PC2, so I got to tinkering with the audio output of the game and saw in banana that I had the VM-AUX set to A2 which IS my HD60 Pro So I Should have heard it but the Game hadn't been set to the AUX OP Via Win Settings Because they take priority over the In Game Settings.

Problem Solved And Noted EveryWhere.

To those on this path with me. If you have a better option than this spaghett TAKE IT! Save your Brain Cells From this Torment!

Thanks Again to all who Commented!

My rig:

Ryzen 5 5500

Kingston Fury 1x16 GB of RAM

Sapphire Nitro+ RX 580 8GB

ASRock A320M HDV R4.0 already updated the bios to version 10.50

So I'm having an issue with my PC, for some reason I can't turn on my secure boot, despite ALL the available tips I've followed from switched DP port to HDMI, enable 4G decoding and updating the BIOS it doesn't work at all. The reason I wanna enable the secure boot cause I wanna games that require those feature like Valorant, Modern Warfare 4 and Battlefield 6.

Since the available tips don't work on my side, I'm guessing either my GPU or the Motherboard having some defect. So I searched around and I used AI sometimes for help (I know I'm so stupid to ask for help from AI), the last thing I did before planning to replace my motherboard is flashing the VBIOS.

For this case I follow the tutorial from YouTube, and I was using the latest amdvbflash for my RX 580 which doesn't work, so I downgraded it to version 2.84. I downloaded the new ROM from Tech Power Up site and the latest VBIOS version that is in the website is the same as the current version, but my logic was like "maybe it'll fix some broken code or something", so I ran the program according to some YouTube videos I watched. I backed up the original ROM of my GPU, I installed the new ROM.

After I restarted it... the screen was just blank but I'm still able to hear the windows boot sound, I flipped the BIOS that doesn't get flash and it also got a blank screen. So I tried to reset the CMOS by removing the battery, when I turned on my PC... It doesn't POST. No windows booting sound, my keyboard doesn't turn on, my monitor doesn't detect any signal. I already switched the BIOS on the GPU but it's still not posting at all.

As for now I don't have any spare graphic cards or CPU with integrated graphics laying around. Is my graphic really bricked? Or is it still possible to bring it back to life again?

I have had a problem where playing videos would result in (partial) greenscreens (sometimes flickering) and also causes the program to completely freeze up and sometimes freeze my whole pc with it. This is not a problem limited to some software, but it happens for steam game trailers, discord streams, VLC for certain files, youtube on vivaldi, but not on firefox,...
There was also one time when I started the pc and there were static green lines all over the entire screen, but they went away after a few restarts and never happened again. I disconnected my graphics card then (running on an internal cpu card) and it was still happening.

hello. I have a lenovo loq 15ahp10 laptop with a r7 250 and rtx 5050. I have been facing this issue ever since I purchased it this year which wouldn't happen on my prev laptop hp pavilion 15 gaming with an i5 11300h and gtx 1650. issue is that whenever i am scrolling slowly, like just one small scroll, the display feels shaky or jumpy. I cannot quite describe it but it doesn't feel smooth as it should and as it did on my previous laptop. i have even noticed a small fade in fade out kind of appearance while i do this smooth scrolling. i have majorly experienced it on browsers. brave, edge, chrome, firefox. I tried recording a video but the phone camera is unable to capture it properly. To anyone looking at the video, it'd feel like normal.

I have tried toggling on/off smooth scrolling, hardware acceleration in browsers, have tried toggling on/off hags. My refresh rate is fixed at 144hz. Happens with gsync on and off both. Have reinstalled the graphics drivers. Have even tried switching to dgpu mode on my laptop which doesn't fix this and causes another issue of broken sleep mode (black screen with cursor. Have to hard restart), so i keep it on hybrid mode all the time. Tried explaining it to lenovo but they said nothing's wrong.

Even tried nvidia multipane overlay disable. Didn't fix. Have reset the laptop once as well as the lenovo guy told me to. yet to do a complete windows reinstall though I am not sure if it'll actually do anything either.

A micro observation is that when i restart the laptop and immediately hop on browser, for a while it doesn't feel as shaky when I scroll slowly. I am experiencing this the most on my manga site in which it's most noticeable but still not able to capture the fade in fade out transition or the jumpy movement while slowly scrolling.

Also, only the part being scrolled gets affected. For example in reddit, while scrolling comments, i experience this on the comments only, not on left or right side which are stationary.

I have 2 PC's in two rooms. The first computer is maybe 15ft from the router, through a wall, and the second is maybe 25ft, parallel to the first room.

The closest computer had wifi troubles, so I updated the wifi card, and boom, 300 MB/s on 802.11ax 5Ghz Wifi network 1. If I use the wifi extender, which has its own secondary network, on 2.4Ghz, I get about 100? 150? So for me, it's faster to use the normal wifi.

Now the second computer, the extender network gets about 100, whereas the default network gets 40 about 40. The wifi card in it is more than good enough, I've tried wifi 6, 2.4, 5Ghz, auto config, 802.11ax, etc. Some settings changes it, but it's not like the first computer that works well.

I'd default to "oh it's just the distance, I'll live with it" but I said that for years about my computer, but it only needed a $13 wifi card.

Any advice? Im gonna try and reinstall the drivers next.