As a newer wildlife photographer, whose passion is wildlife but couples and family gigs pay the bills to fund the passion-I set a goal for myself to capture our nations bird and I recently accomplished that.

This past weekend, this Bald Eagle sat with me for about 10-15 minutes before taking a poop and flying off. Hope you enjoy.

Z8
800 6.3

After having 3 D800 series cameras I finally have a good copy of the D810 and I love shooting with it. The files are so rich and creamy. It’s been over ten years with nothing but heartbreak, it was mainly the autofocus but no more.

Just wanted to post some photos from last weekend and celebrate being able to enjoy this wonderful camera :)

I have been using this kit for astro and northern lights a lot. This one is from 2 nights ago.

Found this dead spider cleaned and posed it on a tree leaf

Shot on Nikon D610 + jupiter 37A 135mm f3.5 (intermediate lens) + reversed Nikon E 100mm f2.8 @f8 1.35X magnification

Godox tt350 1/128 power shutter speed 1/200 iso Lo 0.3

A stack of 50+ photos stacked in shine stacker

Post processing in photoshop

Since you guys liked my previous posts about the Plena, here are a few more random shots I took over the past month with the Plena mounted on my Z6 III. Enjoy!

fly's eye

Nikon D5300 + M42 tube + Inexpensive microscope objective 10X 160/0.17

Not sure how I feel about these. Thoughts?
Currently traveling with a 85 1.8 only. Thinking about getting a 40mm.

Taken with a Z6. And 85 1.8.

Z50 w/ NIKKOR Z DX 16-50mm f/3.5-6.3 VR. Post in NX Studio.

Z50 w/ NIKKOR Z DX 16-50mm f/3.5-6.3 VR. Post in NX Studio.

Still working on the color grading and composition but practice makes progress 😊

Nikon D5300 ( Sensor: 24.2 Megapixel DX-format CMOS sensor (APS-C) without an Optical Low-Pass Filter (OLPF) for sharper image details.

​Image Processor: EXPEED 4.

​ISO Range: 100 – 12,800 (expandable to 25,600).

​Autofocus System: Multi-CAM 4800DX with 39 AF points (including 9 cross-type sensors).

​Continuous Shooting: Up to 5 frames per second (fps).

​Video Capabilities: Full HD (1080p) recording at up to 60p/50p with a built-in stereo microphone.

​Display: 3.2-inch, 1,037k-dot fully articulating (vari-angle) LCD screen.

​Connectivity: Built-in Wi-Fi and GPS modules.

​Lens Mount: Nikon F mount (DX format). Note: The camera body lacks an internal autofocus motor, meaning autofocus requires AF-S or AF-P lenses.

​Battery: EN-EL14a rechargeable Li-ion battery (rated for ~600 shots per charge according to CIPA standards).

-Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED

-Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR II

-Nikon AF NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8D

I’ve been experimenting more with motion blur and trying to capture the energy of NYC through my older Nikon. I really liked how the red car stood out against the blue reflections and shadows from the bridge.
Still learning and experimenting with different editing styles. Would love to hear what you guys think!

Shot on a Z50 ii 9mm 2.8 Viltrox lense.

1/125 F8 100iso

I'm a hobbyist photographer and I've currently got an old D5300 that I'm using to take medieval combat (Buhurt), photography. Think MMA but with 5-10 people all in full steel armor with steel weaponry fighting. I need a camera that will last all day throughout a long event with multiple rounds, fighters, etc, and be able to capture lots of photos in a row looking for the ideal frame where the weapons are looking great. I'll sometimes capture 1500-2000+ photos during a day of an event. Lighting ranges from indoor, to outdoor daytime, evening, and potentially in the rain as well. For my home use as well I also would like a decent one to do wildlife photography.

I'm having issues with my D5300 in this role. Its okay, but mine has a little bit of back focus on my 35mm prime (and some but not as much on my 50mm prime). Also at high capture speed, I find the RAW buffer to fill up so quickly that I can't keep snapping through a whole clash. The auto focus also leaves something to be desired.

So my initial plan was D7500. Much larger RAW buffer, 8 FPS vs my D5300's 5, tuneable per-lens focus adjustment so I can deal with any focus problems. I'm currently in the F-mount space with 4 lenses (18-55 VR kit, 55-200 VR II, 50mm f/1.8 prime, 35mm f/1.8 prime).

My budget is small so I'm going to buy used. MPB has low shutter count (5000 or so) for around $670. Most of the research I can find online is people saying its silly to buy a DSLR these days and that I should just get a Z50 II. My problem there is MPB has used ones for $900 or so, but then I'd also need another $150+ for the F to Z adapter. Then I'm dealing with the low battery life that mirrorless gives.

What should I do here? I don't know if I can reasonably justify the extra cost going to the Z50 II, or if I'm in the weird space where I'd be better off buying older tech and going with the D7500 to continue using my F lenses and enjoy the longer battery life. Sadly I live in the ass end of no where with no camera stores around so I can't actually go try out both to see which I like more. I dont know if the better eye/face tracking on the Z50 II is even going to work on people in steel helmets!

Total I'd like to keep under $700 if possible, hence the 7500 idea. I get some trade in value on the D5300, MPB and KEH both say around $200

For anyone interested, this is what I shoot

While researching 35mm lens options for my Zf, I considered getting an adapter for Sony E lenses, as I have access to a full armoury via our studio.

However, I read that, because of the different filter thickness in front of Sony and Nikon sensors, Sony wide lenses suffer from a reduction of corner sharpness (only wides, it is less present with standard and teles).

> Sony E-mount sensors feature a relatively thick stack (~2.0 mm).

> Nikon Z sensors feature a noticeably thinner stack (~1.1 mm to 1.3 mm).

> Field Curvature: This is the most common artifact. The focal plane bends into a bowl or wave shape rather than staying flat. If you focus sharply in the dead center, the edges or corners drift out of focus (often curving toward the foreground).

> Peripheral Astigmatism & Corner Smearing: Fine details in the far corners may look softer, smudged, or exhibit chromatic aberrations/astigmatism when shot wide open.

Has anyone experienced this? Any comments?

So, I finally got around to buying a FTZ adapter for my Z8 after finding a Nikkor PC-E 24mm tilt/shift lens for a good price on eBay, and since I now have the adapter I’m looking into getting some good Nikon F glass.

I’m mostly interested in wide-angle primes under 50mm as the current Z lineup is a bit lackluster in that range (at least cheap options), and maybe some more “out there” lenses that don’t really exist anymore.

I’ve tried looking into it myself but the amount of lenses is bewildering and I’m a little lost having only shot with Nikon F back in the mid-2000s with a DX camera and Nikon Z now, so I’m looking for suggestions.

Bonus, unrelated points for anyone who can explain to me why they don’t make tilt/shift lenses anymore? At least not properly good ones from the major manufacturers, they all point to their old models, and the ones from third-parties seem to all have some issues. The only recent one I could find is the GF 30mm f/5,6 T/S.

Shot in raw , edited in Raw therapee , gimp and Snapseed

Z50 w/ NIKKOR Z DX 16-50mm f/3.5-6.3 VR. Last photo of jeans, lens used was Zoom-Nikkor 28-85mm f/3.5-4.5 Ai-S. Post in NX Studio.

Eurasian jay checking the freshly fallen nuts.

Nikon Z9 + Nikon Z 180- 600