What a great weekend this was. This was our 7th trip with our epro 19fds that we bought in June. Can't wait to get back put there this weekend. I love this trailer.

We’ve had this a few months now. But by far a big upgrade over our 15 year old I-Go

Hello!

I had been mulling this idea over in my head and I was wondering if something like the (very rough) concept I threw together would be viable?

In most fifth wheel campers, the master bedroom is at the front, and the bunks at the rear. This means limited head space for the adults, on top of having to climb up to get to your bedroom.

Could it be possible to design a fifth wheel camper that is only slightly taller than a standard height travel trailer, move the master bed to the rear and make the kiddos climb up into bed? I mean you already make them do that with regular bunk beds.

This also allows pass thru storage at the rear of the camper, ensuring tongue weight does not increase significantly. You could position the axles somewhat strategically to ensure that cargo in the pass thru would not offset too much tongue weight.

Pass thru bathroom as it’s the most efficient use of space.

The slide out would feature a free-floating table. The seating is an L-shaped lounge style. To ensure seating for the whole family, a free floating ottoman for extra seating.

The front bunks would be separated via a curtain or optional wall to ensure the kiddos get their own spaces.

The entertainment center would be built into the wall which separates the bunks from the living space.

In my head the target tongue weight would be ~800 pounds.

Total length target around 27 feet (on which about 6 feet or so would overhang the bed of the pickup truck)

Depending on build specs dry weight maybe 4750?

I even drew it up as a gooseneck to offset the payload needed for a fifth wheel hitch in the bed of the truck.

If a gooseneck was possible, then you could slide it forward a little further than usual to accommodate trucks with a 5.5 foot bed.

What do you guys think?

The forecast shows a low of 29°F tonight. Your travel trailer is parked in the driveway, and you plan to camp again next weekend. Do you really need to winterize it now?

The answer depends on the RV, its plumbing layout, whether it is heated, and how long freezing conditions may last. But the decision should not be based on one reassuring thought: “It is only one night.”

Water trapped in a line, valve, pump, filter housing, or water heater can expand when it freezes. Grand Design's owner guidance tells owners to winterize before exposure to temperatures at or below 32°F (0°C). Treat that as a serious manufacturer warning, not as a guarantee that a particular RV will fail at exactly 32 degrees.

Here is a practical way to make the decision before the first cold night.

## 1. Check the RV's Actual Exposure

Start with the forecast for the RV's location, not the town where you live or the campground you plan to visit. Look at the overnight low, how many hours temperatures may remain below freezing, wind, and the next several nights.

The National Weather Service distinguishes frost conditions from freeze warnings, but those alerts are designed primarily around seasonal vegetation. They are not an RV plumbing certification. A trailer's exposed hose or exterior shower may cool differently from plumbing inside an insulated, heated compartment.

If you cannot verify that your specific RV's plumbing will remain protected, follow its winterization instructions before freezing exposure. Do not assume an enclosed underbelly, a space heater in the living room, or a “four-season” marketing label protects every component.

## 2. Locate the Plumbing Parts That Get Forgotten

Before touching a valve, open the owner's manual for your exact year, model, and installed water-heater type.

Identify the fresh-water tank drain, low-point drains, water pump, city-water connection, water-heater drain and bypass, and any winterization suction line. Then look for the less obvious outlets: exterior shower, outdoor kitchen faucet, spray port, toilet, water filter, and black-tank flush connection.

Winnebago's 2024 towables manual explicitly includes exterior faucets and spray ports in its antifreeze procedure. That is a useful reminder: protecting the kitchen sink alone is not the same as protecting the plumbing system.

Take photos of the valve positions before changing anything. Labels and diagrams vary, and a valve arrangement copied from another RV may be wrong for yours.

## 3. Shut Down the Water Heater Correctly

A water heater deserves its own step because the wrong sequence can damage equipment or create a burn hazard.

Turn off the water heater's electrical and fuel-powered heating functions as directed by its manufacturer. Allow it to cool, remove pressure according to the manual, and follow the model-specific draining instructions. Never remove a hot, pressurized water-heater drain plug.

Tank-type heaters often have bypass valves so RV antifreeze does not fill the heater tank. But tankless or on-demand models may have different requirements. Jayco's 2025 towable manual specifically distinguishes these systems.

Do not assume every water heater should be bypassed, drained, or treated with antifreeze in the same way. If the manual for the installed heater is missing, pause and contact the manufacturer or an RV technician.

## 4. Choose the Approved Winterization Method

Manufacturers commonly describe an RV-antifreeze method, a compressed-air method, or both. The right choice depends on the plumbing and equipment installed.

For an antifreeze procedure, use only the product type approved for potable RV plumbing. Never put automotive engine coolant or windshield-washer fluid into drinking-water lines. Jayco warns that these products can be poisonous.

Follow the prescribed sequence for draining, setting bypass valves, removing or bypassing filters, drawing antifreeze into the correct lines, and treating drains and traps. Include every outlet the manual identifies.

If your model permits compressed-air winterizing, use the pressure limit and procedure specified for that exact RV. Internet pressure settings are not universal. Air-blowing also may not protect every appliance, trap, or accessory by itself.

When in doubt, book a qualified RV service appointment rather than experimenting with an unfamiliar valve panel.

## 5. Don't Forget the Outside Connections

The hose between the campground spigot and your RV is particularly exposed. Disconnect, drain, and store it when freezing weather is expected unless you have a properly designed, approved cold-weather setup.

Check the exterior shower and spray port, which may contain residual water even when the inside faucets seem empty. Consult the manual for any black-tank flush line; it may need separate attention.

A heated water hose is not proof that the RV's inlet, fittings, tanks, and valves are all protected. Nor does an electric space heater make an unattended RV safe from freezing. Never use improvised heating devices near combustible materials or defeat ventilation and electrical safety requirements.

## 6. Make a Return-to-Service Note

Winterization is not finished when the last faucet runs pink or the last drain closes.

Record the date, method, product used, valve positions, filter removal, and any appliance requiring a special restart. Attach a visible reminder at the water-heater controls if they must stay off until the system is properly refilled.

Before the next trip, follow the manufacturer's de-winterizing and sanitizing instructions. Restore normal valve positions, reinstall or replace filters as specified, and verify that the water heater is full before energizing it.

The point is not to panic over every chilly forecast. It is to know your RV well enough to make a defensible decision before trapped water becomes an expensive repair.

Before the next cold night, find the winterization pages for your exact RV and photograph the plumbing valve panel. That ten-minute preparation is worth more than guessing at midnight.

Husband and I are brand new at this. I am 45 he is 56 so we are not willing to "rough it" the way we would in our 20s.

We rented a 30 foot Salem for the weekend and enjoyed the experience; it felt cramped, but no slide out and a lot of room was being taken up by the BH.

I have spent probably 25+ hours researching and am focused on the Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S and Jayco Jay Feather 23RK. Id love to hear your opinions and experiences and whether I am missing something.

I would call our must have list cabinets/space next to the bed (he has a Cpap), no Murphy bed, a slide out for the living area and theater seats that face the TV. We only need the sleep space for us/need the bed and can live without a dinnet.

At the sake of sounding greedy, if you are willing to share features you wish you had in your first travel trailer that you didn't, I am all ears.

Newbie here! I have this camper parked in my driveway with rubber 6” tall chocks on both sides. Anything else I can do to make sure it doesn’t move..?

Update: trailer is pushed back a tad so tongue is completely out of sidewalk, stabilizers down.

We are starting to plan a camping trip with our three boys. Never done with the baby who is 7 months. We have a bunk, a queen bed, and a convertible table/bed. I was thinking a pack and play. It would be tight but he’s too big for a small bassinet. My husband thinks the convertible table with a baby gate? Any tips in general for camping with a baby, much appreciated!

What is the general etiquette as to washing your RV at a campground using water from your hookup?

Assuming no written policy, it's not the desert, and you would not impose on your neighbors when doing it, and using biodegradable soap?

Hi,
I know I am well within the numbers, so not trying to get that talk going.
TV is a RAM2500 with 15.000lbs tow rating and the travel trailer has a GVWR of 6.500lbs.
I set up the WDH as best as I can and want to make sure it looks right to people that know more than I do.
I feel like I had to put a bunch of washers on the hitch to tilt the head to even get some force on the round bars (used 6 of the 7 washers).

Unloaded front fender is 41”
Loaded without round bars is 41.7”
Loaded with round bars is 41.2”
That gives me a distribution of 72, which is also a great number.

So yeah, is there anything that could be or should be changed or adjusted to make it better?
If so, please let me know… I appreciate the feedback.

Thank you

I'm troubleshooting a persistent water pump issue on my 2022 Winnebago Solis 59PX and could use some advice.

The Issue: My main Shurflo 4008 water pump (located in the subfloor, Exhibit C) runs continuously. The pump primes perfectly, and I have strong water pressure at all faucets. However, when I close the faucets, the pump never reaches its 55 PSI shut-off limit and just keeps running indefinitely.

What I’ve Tried So Far:

• Bled the system: Ran both hot and cold lines extensively, including the exterior rear wash station, to purge air from the 2.6-gallon Truma Combi boiler.
• Cleaned the strainer: Removed the intake strainer bowl on the pump. Found some white plastic factory shavings in the mesh, cleaned them out, and re-seated the O-ring tightly. Did not fix the issue.
• Checked for leaks: Verified the 3 low-point drains and the Truma FrostControl valve are fully closed. Did the paper towel test. No visible water dumping under the van.
• Verified Nautilus panel: Confirmed it is correctly set to "Dry Camping."

Previous Owner Mods: The previous owner performed the common DIY "City Water Reroute" to move the city water connection under the chassis so the rear doors can remain closed.

The Mystery (Exhibits A, D, E): While tracking lines, I found a second Shurflo 4008 pump mounted on the wall behind the Nautilus panel. I suspect this was a DIY addition for winterizing, but I have never been able to get it to activate.

My Questions:

1. Has anyone experienced a Shurflo 4008 that grabs water perfectly but refuses to reach shut-off pressure despite a clean strainer and bled lines?
2. Does anyone recognize this dual-pump setup? Could this secondary aftermarket pump be creating an internal open loop or air leak that is preventing the main floor pump from pressurizing the system?

Thanks -desperate new van dweller

Hello everyone! As the title says, I am looking for some advice since I know nothing. Growing up I did a lot of camping, but only ever used tents. I have little towing experience and am rubbish at backing up with a trailer.

People: 2 adults, 2 kids (2 and 5)
Use: base camp while we are biking/hiking, likely 2 day trips
Area: Northeast, predominantly NY Adirondack mountains area.
Vehicle: GMC Sierra 6.2 V8
Budget: ~$20k

I’ve been looking at the 19-25’ range. I don’t know what brands are quality vs something that will fall apart in a few years. I don’t know what are “must have” features versus nice to haves for my family. I also don’t know what true prices are. I see lots of “deals” and “clearance” at the moment, which seems to make sense given the time of year, but are they true discounts or are things regularly on sale? Also I read I should go with double axel. The only thing I’m confident in is my truck, as I bought it knowing this day would come.

To help a family member out, we parked our camper in an in-laws backyard so someone can use it. They back up to a forest that is full of stink bugs. These things try to get in the camper anyway possible.

Has anyone come up with a viable method to repel them or keep them away?

Having trouble finding a quality replacement. What is this seal type called?

I often park at fairgrounds which typically are fly infested. I use a trap outside, but what do you use inside that isn't stinky to deter/control them?

Looking to see if we should cancel our FEB reservation due to hurricane damage. Any one with knowledge?

We are picking up our new RV from Bishs in Cheyenne this coming Saturday. Any recommendations on a good hookup site within 30 minutes of Cheyenne by water. Coming from Denver. Near water preferably.

Thanks in advance for any recommendations.

Hello! My wife and I are renting a Winnebago Vita (24') this week to see if this is something we want to do. I have heard so many horror stories about RV quality that I'm very. very hesitant to put money down should we decide to go forward. That being said, the recommendations I'm getting are 1) Avoid anything THOR owned (which is like 80% of the industry) 2) Avoid models in the 2021 to 2023 range as the pandemic produced a demand which the manufacturers could not meet so they hired less than competent labor 3) Avoid all models assembly lined where workers are paid by the unit. So...I've been looking at a Gulf Stream Conquest and a Winnebago Minnie Winnie. Even though our rental has a slide out, I don't want a slide out if we purchase a unit (again, so many horror stories). I want to keep to 25 feet or less with either a Ford, RAM or Chevy engine (can't afford the maintenance and headaches of a Mercedes Benz motor).

Am I accurate in my concerns? Do you have other brand/model suggestions?

Thanks!

Owner said there has never been leaks.

Thankfully I was able to ride it out at a friends house! Because of a mandatory evacuation we all had to leave the RV park.

We rented a 20’ Camper van with twin beds and king size bed option, with wet bathroom and storage that spanned the width of the van, which we liked, in the back. After a long day of hiking it was a pain to make up the king bed but the walkway between the twin beds was very narrow. I want a van narrow enough and short enough for most standard parking spaces and park roads length restrictions. Are there any Class B sized vans that have pop out sides vs. pop up for sleeping

Traffic is awful, it took 2 extra hours to get here, and I'm pretty sure Cincinnati drivers are trying to kill each other... But God did I need this trip!

Now to the Ren Fair!

Hello! My first language is American sign language. And forgive me if you are having trouble reading my English grammar. I'm looking at two truck. 2022 F150 hhdp vs f250 gasser to tow camper.

I found one that is 2,500lbs payload. Our 5th wheel is 7,300lbs dry. 1,300lbs hitch. Will be tow fine? Mostly flat out here.

I am planning to sell my 2011 F350 6.2L. It has been very good to us but it is bad on fuel. And been wanting to get a heavy duty payload package because of comfort and 24mpg on fuel.when not towing. Only tow 2 months of weekend camping trips.

Will be 5.0 HHDP be okay.