Struggling with 1000D cordura on domestic machine

[u/cwes14]

I working on sewing a set of bikepacking bags. For deciding in material I wanted to try a stem bag out of cordura 1000D with a nylon liner.

My kenmore 158 was struggling with some jamming issues and starting when going through multiple layers. Am I pushing the limits of machine or am I missing something?

Outer fabric cordura 1000D

Thread Guttermann topstick thread spool

Guttermann universal thread in bobbin

Organ Jean needle 110/18

[u/modal_enigma]

I will start out by saying I’m biased here as I’m a sewing machine mechanic… that said… 1000D in multiple layers + a liner is generally considered industrial walking foot territory.

You could probably do it with a drop feed industrial, but the machine would not like it.

I don’t know that model of kenmore, but if it has plastic gears and a basic motor, you’re not likely to have a ton of success. It may work for a while, but the gears are probably getting ground down.

[u/rolocomen → u/modal_enigma]

sewing machine mechanic? that sounds like the dream job! Is it essentially being a car mechanic but having way more fun?

[u/modal_enigma → u/rolocomen]

Or a whole lot more aggravating 🤣

At least with cars you have full repair manuals and instructions. With Industrial sewing machines… it’s a lot rougher. Your documentation is scans of parts manuals and terribly translated instructions.

It’s a lot of fun, but requires the patience of a saint. You can make a good living just fixing machines - I am an idiot and made a whole freaking business out of it. It’s a dying art/trade but it’s definitely a nice bit of stroking for the hero complex.

Bonus points: my customers know that I love bourbon, and will often bring me a gift bottle when they pick up their machines. 🙏🏽

[u/rh-z → u/rolocomen]

In 1980 I had lost my job and part of the Canadian government unemployment program I took some tests, asked questions, what income I hoped to have. Their recommendation was for me to become a sewing machine mechanic. At the time there was a significant garment industry in the city where I lived. Which did mostly disappear due to production that move to China. I had instead decided that I wanted to pursue a career in electronics, which turned out to be the right decision. Now that I am retired one of my main interests is non-garment sewing. Currently with seven sewing machines in my collection. (five 158 series Kenmore's) All obtained for free with half that needed work to get working properly. A lot cleaner than working on a car.

[u/cwes14 → u/modal_enigma]

Thank you for your thought. I wanted to give it a shot since that is what the pattern I plan on using suggest, though I thought it would probably be too thick once I felt the fabric.

The machine has full metal gears, but I am not sure the motor size.

[u/dtremit → u/cwes14]

That series of Kenmore machines are “3/4” size portables — excellent quality but a little less powerful than the full size ones. Believe they have 0.8A motors compared with 1A or 1.2A on the bigger models from the same time period. I’m also not sure they have a reduction pulley the way most 158 Kenmore models do.

[u/510Goodhands → u/modal_enigma]

I have one of those machines, and I’ve used another one as well. It’s small, yet feisty.

He probably is being pushed a little bit too hard with several layers of heavy fabric.

OP, see if you can find a gear driven machine with at least a one amp motor, if you don’t have a spacer budget for an industrial machine.

[u/JimBridger_]

Yeah 1000D is definitely the outer limits of a home machine. You can probably get away with 2 layers in a seam but that’s about it.

I’d recommend dropping down to something in the 300-500D range. Still plenty strong and abrasion resistant. It’ll take a crash or couple and weight a lot less than 1000D and you’re more likely to get better quality result with your home machine. 1000D is kinda overkill for most people’s needs who aren’t doing something like air travel luggage or something that is in constant contact with the ground.

[u/cwes14 → u/JimBridger_]

That's what I think I am going to do. The 1000D felt crazy thick to me so I bought the minimum amount to do some tests.

I think the 1000D willl be a hassle to sew, could break my machine, and will be overkill for my weekend camping trips.

[u/Nothingtoseehere159a]

I have had similar issues. Now I do most projects with no 35 or 50 thread top and bottom (Alterfil typically) and 14 or 16 needle. Turning my foot pressure and thread tension almost all the way up and hand feeding over folds where many layers or webbing overlap.

Microtex needles might help as well, but I generally find this mostly makes a difference for densely woven fabrics. Not necessarily Cordura 1000 or 500.

Hope you find a way to dial it in :)

[u/Head-Impression-83]

How many layers? Ive sewn a back pack with a singer 401a in 1000d coudura. Its definitely a struggle in some spots but only past 4-5 layers.

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[u/dustycassidy]

First- I’m jealous of that machine. The 158.10400 is on my list of dream machines. While that pint sized machine is just as powerful as most 158 kenmores, this is just too much for any home machine. I would encourage you to think about l how thinks are going to be used and if you actually need that heavy of material for your use. I’ve sewn a lot of bikepacking bags on old kenmores and ridden extensively with them and have never felt the need for anything heavier than something like a VX21

[u/dewyke]

You can’t really sew 1000D cordura well on a domestic machine, if for no other reason than that a domestic machine won’t feed the size of thread you need for the seams to be usefully strong compared to the fabric.

You need something that’ll feed v69 or v92 thread which domestic machines just won’t do cleanly.

You _might_ get something like a Singer 201 to work with v69 but that’s still not what it was designed for.

You really need some kind of walking foot machine, ideally a compound feed where the needle, foot and feed dog all move together. That ensures you don’t get layer slip.

The Singer 111W is the OG compound feed machine and there are heaps of machines based on it now, like the Consew 206RB etc.

The Pfaff 335 is also a great machine for MYOG work. It’s a small cylinder bed machine so it can get into 3D shapes that are impossible to sew on a flat bed machine. It’s also easy to set up with a synchronised binder and it’s not difficult to make a flat bed attachment for it for the jobs that do need one.

Depending on where you are older models can be had pretty cheap.

[u/nonoohnoohno]

Is it just when you hit tricky parts where multiple seams come together, and that are thicker?

If so, with some designs you can avoid this by offsetting your seams. It won't look as symmetrical but it'll sew a lot easier.

EDIT: Two more easy things to try:

1. Try is Microtex needles.

2. Make sure you size your needles to your thread, not the materal. 18 is pretty huge for general purpose thread. Try 12 or 14.

[u/cwes14 → u/nonoohnoohno]

The biggest issues are yes when it hits the seams or webbing, or when initially starting on 3 or more layers i can hear it struggle.

I originally had a size 14 needle and it was a real mess (the hole was too tight for the thread), buddy at the sewing machine store suggested the 18. It did make a huge difference.

[u/nonoohnoohno → u/cwes14]

I wonder if maybe it's not actually Sew-All thread, then. That is tex 30 and will work great in smaller needles. It's actually meant for 10-12. May be worth trying a regular thread off the shelf of any craft store or walmart, which is also around tex 30.

Not that a smaller needle is going to fix the problem on its own, but combined with microtex it may help quite a bit (smaller, sharper area to push through).

[u/cwes14 → u/nonoohnoohno]

Oh sorry the thread i used was quite thick so I needed the larger needle.

I was suggested to use top stitch thread by the guy at the fabric store.

I have some sew all thread that I can try tomorrow with the smaller needle. But I think overall the 1000D will be too thick for my larger bag project. I may use it at some high stress areas. Going to try out some 500D fabric instead.