r/myog • u/UnbentTulip • Jun 12 '26
Question Would a new machine help?
This is moreso probably one of those "talk me in to/out of" type posts, but who knows.
Currently sewing on a singer 4432 that's probably 10 years old now. I mostly do clothing/garments, just started my first "myog" project making some of the UL Wind shells for me and my wife.
Using 20D ripstop (1.1oz calendared). Surprisingly not as bad working with it as I thought it would be. Finger creases nice, and a little bit slippery but not too bad.
I've been looking into getting a new machine lately, and this fabric is making me consider a sooner than later purchase. But, I'm unsure if my problem will even be solved by what I'm considering.
With the thin nylon, my seams "pucker" some, especially when doing flat felled or similar.
Using mara 70, microtex needle, have gone up and down tension, yada yada. Only things I haven't tried are walking foot attachment or a straight stitch plate (I don't have a plate ATM).
But, I've been looking at several machines that have features that may help that. Machines with the Pfaff IDF system, or auto tensioning.
Obviously the answer is industrial, and I wish I currently had the space because I could get 2-3 used industrial and fix them up for the cost of one good home machine in my area.
Machines I have been looking at are the Pfaff 1222, Passport 2/3, Ambition 610/620.. Juki HZL-DX5/7. For my general sewing I want/need buttonhole option, (and the 4432 kinda sucks on buttonholes), zig zag and letter embroidery would be nice (That's mostly all normal garment stuff).
Or, the other option is go pure straight stitch machine since that's 95% of my sewing, and get a vintage Pfaff 130, Necchi BU, Kenmore 158, or more modern and go Juki TL18, TL2000/2010, Brother 1500, Janome HD9, etc...
The auto cut and start/end tack and needle down features would be super nice, but not completely necessary.
Thinking out loud mostly, but the IDF type system vs not having it is a big debate in my head. And the thought of "If I'm spending this much, I should replace my general purpose machine" thought is keeping me shy of straight stitch only machines...
Edit: Adding a link to a photo of a seam. https://imgur.com/a/bAdut7C
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u/510Goodhands Jun 12 '26
It may or may not be possible, but you might check to see if you can reduce your presser foot pressure.
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u/UnbentTulip Jun 12 '26
I actually had to increase it. That was one of my first thoughts, but any looser and the dogs weren't barking. Tightening it more helped with some of the puckering. If I hold a little more tension than normal, I can almost get it to go away.
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u/510Goodhands Jun 12 '26
Someone posted about this a week or so ago, and it was suggested that they use tissue paper. They put it on both sides, and it made a big difference.
Also, are you using the appropriate needle size, or maybe a microtex needle?
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u/dogpownd Jun 12 '26
I use the tissue trick and it's amazing.
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u/510Goodhands Jun 12 '26
On one side, or both? If just one side, top or bottom?
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u/dogpownd Jun 12 '26
I put it on the bottom.
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u/510Goodhands Jun 12 '26
For you another to use the tissue trick, what weight of paper do you use?
Is the very light stuff that sometimes comes folded inside of a good quality dress shirt work, or does it need to be heavier than that?
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u/dogpownd Jun 12 '26
That might work. I think mine is a bit heavier
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u/510Goodhands Jun 12 '26
Where did you get it? Does it have a specific name?
Inquiring MYOGers want to know!1
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u/CBG1955 Jun 13 '26
Did you try with a shorter stitch length? Sometimes you simply need to take some scrap fabric and test, see what needle/thread/stitch length combination works best. Keep a notebook with samples of your stitches, and what worked.
I had a Pfaff with IDT a few years ago and it was a huge NO for me, can't even remember why but I do remember that every time I used it I was literally in tears. I'm not a beginner either, it was just a lemon machine. Currently using a Brother quilting machine which is nice but not perfect because it's not designed for sewing quilt cotton bag linings and the associated thicknesses it creates.
I highly recommend going into machine dealers with samples of what you sew and test drive. Push the machines hard. You may find one that stands out better than another. Online suggestions are good, but nothing can compare with how a machine feels to use.
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u/Natural_Law Jun 13 '26
I’m curious to hear more about the Pfaff, if you remember details.
Seems like people often love IDT machines.
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u/CBG1955 Jun 13 '26
Ok I got rid of it almost 7 years ago but the things I recall most were that it was simply not intuitive to use. Every single thing I sewed, it pulled to the left. In hindsight it could have been a fault with the feed dogs, but the dealer closed not long after I bought it and the new dealership that took over refused to honour the warranty because they didn't sell the machine. Choosing a stitch meant you had to punch in a series of numbers rather than pick a stitch icon. It didn't have a presser foot pressure adjustment. It absolutely would not sew anything knit - and the ONLY knit thing I do on a regular sewing machine is stitch neckbands in a circle so the seam opens, lies flat and is less bulky than doing it on the overlocker. Every single time I used the machine it simply sucked the joy out of me and I ended up shrieking at it. And I spent more than a year test driving various machines before I picked it, it wasn't an impulse buy.
Some people love their Pfaffs, some don't. I'm not married to a brand.
I actually have no memory whether or not I liked the IDT - the whole machine was just sad to use so I sold it and bought a Brother VQ2400 (now BQ2500) and am satisfied. I had never intended to pick such an expensive machine but it had the largest working space between the machine head and the needle plate, important for me because I have slight mobility impairment in my hands.
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u/Natural_Law Jun 13 '26
Thank you! Great info.
I’m considering buying a Pfaff Select (upgrading from my Kenmore/Janome 385) and so am just looking for the most feedback.
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u/nonoohnoohno Jun 13 '26 edited Jun 13 '26
Passport 2/3
I looked long and hard at that machine too, and really like it's computerized feature where you can have it stop with the needle up, or down. But otherwise I don't think it's a good investment unless you really need the portability.
For just a bit more size you can get the Select 4.2 or 3.2 which is far more powerful, and mechanical so it'll never be obsolete like an old PC.
Just another option to consider. I'm obviously biased because that's the route I went.
EDIT: And fwiw: the IDT is awesome and makes working with thin slippery materials a breeze. Here are some thoughts I shared on it earlier, if you're interested.
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u/Natural_Law Jun 13 '26
Thanks again for sharing your thoughts and indulging all my questions about that machine!
I didn’t act quickly enough and the used one sold. But I’m now considering “factory refurbished” models sold online.
I should just pull the trigger!
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u/nonoohnoohno Jun 14 '26
Aww, that's a bummer. When you have the time, you can come across some great deals, and there's no shortage of good used machines that'll pop up on FB marketplace or craigslist, etc.
I was in a hurry so I got a "previously loved" one from a sewing shop. Turns out they didn't have it in stock so they sent me a new one. Pretty good luck, but I'd have been happy with either.
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u/Natural_Law Jun 15 '26
Can I ask one more random question about the select?
With my very slippery Gutetmann Tera thread, I’ve found that bobbin winding is best if I double wrap the thread around the tension disc/post.
I know that the Select doesn’t have a “traditional” tension disc like a lot of machines, but rather has kind of a plate with notches.
Is it possible to “double wrap” thread about that bobbin tension disc on the Select when winding a bobbin, if I needed to?
Thanks again!
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u/nonoohnoohno Jun 15 '26
Sorry I don't know. You run the thread under a couple of plates with slots cut in them. I suspect it's possible to wrap it vertically around the second one (the one closer to the bobbin) but I haven't tried it, and don't have any slippery thread to give it try either.
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u/codemuncher Jun 12 '26
I got an industrial recently because I’ve been sewing jeans and home sewing machines cannot do this properly.
Yes it’s a piece of furniture. But they are great at what they do. Thread tension problems? Gone. Feed problems? Gone. Workflow issues? Knee presser foot lift is the best.
It’s a small desk yes. And much cheaper than high end home sewing machines.
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u/UnbentTulip Jun 12 '26
Oh, believe me, I 100000% want/understand the industrial craze. It's on my "to-do" list to see if I can manage to find space in my garage for some industrials. If I was better at being consistent with hobbies it would also be easier, haha. Hard to justify several desk sized pieces of equipment if I don't use them all the time as well (working on that...)
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u/codemuncher Jun 12 '26
I call it the quilting tax. That’s why the juki semi industrials cost more than the actual industrials.
Because sewing is a hobby for people with disposable income.
Industrial sewing machines are for people who keep care track of costs and are trying to run a business.
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u/UnbentTulip Jun 12 '26
Haha, yea that definitely makes sense. And the consumer machines have to be able to do a lot more. Or else instead of 550 different stitches on one machine, they would need 550 machines! I wish someone made a machine that has the quality of life features of the $5-10k+ home machines with only like 5 stitches.
I can find used consew/Juki industrials for $100-300 near me all day, which bums me out about the size.
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u/codemuncher Jun 13 '26
So my industrial sewing machine table/desk is on caster wheels… so not portable but def movable!
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u/danransomphoto Sockdolager Equipment Jun 12 '26 edited Jun 12 '26
Very likely what is causing the pucker is the hole in the throat/needle plate is much larger than the actual needle - this is so it can accommodate zig zag stitches, and move needle positions for zippers, and do buttonholes, etc... A machine that is just straight stitch can be setup with a throat plate that has a very small needle hole - this keeps the fabric from deflecting and pushing down into the hole as the needle pierces it, which causes the pucker. Pulling the fabric to add tension while moving under the needle can help keep it taught so the deflection is minimized, but it's not as consistent as a machine that is setup specifically for light fabrics with light feed dogs and a smaller needle plate opening. Unfortunately, this is a hard thing to solve with any machine that is designed for multiple stitches, they have to compromise somewhere for the flexibility. I once 3d printed my own needle plate that has a much smaller opening to put on a Pfaff 130 - it solved the issue. But you have to be careful to keep the needle position correct or it will strike the plate. I'm not familiar enough with the 4432 to say if this is possible or not.
Edit - I just did a quick google search and it does look like you can swap needle plates on your machine for very cheap. I'd give that a shot first and see if that helps.
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u/UnbentTulip Jun 12 '26
The straight stitch needle plate is on my "to try" list, so I'll have to pick one up now. Haha.
That was apparent it needed something when I got too close and it swallowed my fabric at the edge. I can see how it can cause the puckering as well. Holding more tension helped as well, just feels like I'm stretching it even though I'm not (and probably just pulling out the wrinkles).
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u/AccidentOk5240 Jun 12 '26
It’s actually very easy to solve. Put a piece of scotch tape across the throat plate. The needle will punch its own hole. Obviously this doesn’t last long and has to be replaced any time you do anything but straight stitch with the same needle position.
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u/AccidentOk5240 Jun 12 '26
Shorter stitch length
Tissue paper sandwich
Smaller needle. Microtex needle if you’re not already.
I don’t think a walking foot is going to help since the problem is already that the fabric is advancing faster than the thread. I also don’t think a more powerful machine is going to help for the same reason.
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u/UnbentTulip Jun 12 '26
Walking foot definitely wouldn't help, needle feed would be ideal. The Pfaff IDT seemed interesting as it seems an odd in-between of a true walking foot and an attachment walking foot.
I had a short stitch length, that made it look more like I was trying to do sleeve gathering or something, haha. I found the smoothest with the dial between 2 and 3 (out of 4, I'm not sure if that's even related to a real measurement on this machine)
Currently using 70/10 microtex. Microtex is pretty much all I use, except ball points when sewing/serving knits.
Adding an image to my OP to show what puckering I'm talking about a little more. Maybe it's not even that bad. https://imgur.com/a/bAdut7C
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u/jwdjwdjwd Jun 12 '26
For light fabrics and zigzag/button hole you are probably best off with a domestic. But if you go industrial a needle feed is going to be better for the sewing you describe than a walking foot. Something like Juki DLN-5410 or similar would tame slippery fabrics and keep your stitches even.
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u/UnbentTulip Jun 12 '26
Needle feed is what is be looking at for this type of fabric on an industrial, definitely. Dream industrial setup would be a walking foot, needle feed, overlock, and coverlock. I think the correct solution is to convince my wife we need a bigger house...
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u/510Goodhands Jun 12 '26
Tissue paper is pretty small. 😉
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u/UnbentTulip Jun 12 '26
I gotta say, tissue paper is probably like one sewing thing that I avoid at whatever costs I can. I know it's lazy and shooting myself in the foot at times, but it just drives me crazy to do.
But sometimes you have to, and I do.
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u/scarletweidig Jun 12 '26
I’m not talking you out of anything. GET THE MACHINE. They are always so fun 🤣
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u/UnbentTulip Jun 12 '26
Which one though!? 😭
Gotta get my wife on board for the sewing hobby, that makes it even easier to get multiple!
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u/Natural_Law Jun 12 '26
Have you ever adjusted your bobbin tension? Requires taking the needle plate off your machine.
A Pfaff Select should also probably be on your list too.
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u/AccidentOk5240 Jun 12 '26
You should basically never adjust bobbin tension if you can help it. It’s extremely finicky and if you otherwise like where it is you really don’t want to mess it up because you think it might help for a single project.
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u/jwdjwdjwd Jun 12 '26
You should ALWAYS adjust bobbin tension whenever you switch threads. It is good practice to check it when you start of a project and get it the way you want.
It is not extremely finicky, but in the interest of saving time I have two bobbin cases, one set up for lighter thread and one for heavier.
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u/Natural_Law Jun 12 '26 edited Jun 12 '26
He’s correct, though, that adjusting a horizontal bobbin is a lot of trial and error to get it just right. I guess unless you have a 28g weight, which I understand is the equivalent of a “hang test” used to test tension for vertical bobbin cases.
Plus, the way that the tension screw is hidden (like on the Singer HDs) and PAINTED OVER (like the Singer HDs) definitely gives the impression that it shouldn’t be adjusted.
On my Kenmore/Jenome, I just have to take off the horizontal bobbin clear plastic window to have access to the tension screw. Very easy compared to the Singer HD I used for a weekend.
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u/jwdjwdjwd Jun 12 '26
I’m not familiar with that machine. Every machine I’ve used is easy to adjust bobbin tension, so I assumed it would not be as problematic as you described. Just another reason to avoid modern Singers I suppose.
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u/Natural_Law Jun 12 '26
Agreed. The painted/sealed tension screw is really lame in particular. I had to scape off the paint with an exacto knife. And the screw is really loose. Makes you feel like the tension will change just from the machine vibrating in use.
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u/Natural_Law Jun 12 '26
That’s really not true at all. Most thread weights require slightly different tensions to feed out the thread properly. Just like a vertical bobbin case does. A heavier thread like Mara 70 probably needs a 1/8 to 3/8 turn of the bobbin tension screw to loosen it.
Upper and lower tension can be balanced in a stitch but the stitch is still too tight, making lightweight fabrics pucker and “shrink” along the sewn seam. Adjusting the bobbin tension slightly can remedy this.
OP may have never realized his bobbin tension is off because it sounds like he’s sewing lightweight fabrics for the first time. The singer machines are probably adjusted from the factory for something like a Tex 25 thread, not a Tex 40 Mara 70 thread.
But you are correct that once bobbin tension is properly set for any given thread, it never needs adjusting again.
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u/UnbentTulip Jun 12 '26
Not my first time sewing lightweight fabrics, which is part of why I posted machine/fabric kind of together. It's a new to me lightweight fabric, and I feel like I've gone through all of the normal things for lightweight fabric.
Although, I was going to say the main difference is that the ripstop feels more crunchy and sounds different when sewing than other lightweights (handkerchief linen, lingerie type mesh, silk) like it has to pierce more. I'm now wondering if this whole time I just had a dull needle out of the package... I put a brand new Schmetz Microtex 70/10 in when I started.
About to go work on it, so I'll swap out the needle as well it seems!
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u/lauracaceres Jun 12 '26
I highly recommend getting a walking foot attachment for your Singer. It was a complete game changer for very lightweight fabrics on mine, I can sew 15D nylon without major issues. It will also be much more affordable than replacing your whole machine.
It might also be a good idea to start with a higher denier for your first myog projects. Something around 70D will be much easier to handle.