Hello everyone. I have a autographed dark saber signed by Giancarlo Esposito. I’m looking for an acrylic display case for it that is UV protection to help prevent the autograph from fading. Does anyone have any recommendations

Hey everyone. I could use some help and advice. So I've been looking up and down the internet for the type of switch that's recommended for the soundboards that the saver armory sells, and I think I found what I'm looking for. I've already reached out to them about this specific style of momentary switch. However, they have not had any experience with it, so I thought I'd ask here.

Has anyone had any experience with connecting a momentary rocker switch as this to lightsaber soundboards? I've already asked Google about it, and they say "yes, this type of switch is compatible with soundboards that the saber armory uses."

So, before I buy anything, I wanted to ask if anyone has had experience/success with this style of momentary rocker switch for their custom saber builds.

I look forward to everyone's response and advice. Thank you very much in advance.

Full disclosure up front: I run a small lightsaber shop (Exegol Outpost). Not here to sell you anything — this is the same advice I give customers who ask, and half the time it talks them out of spending more money.

Mid-grade blades (2mm wall):
- What nearly every saber ships with, including mine
- Fine for the vast majority of dueling — choreography, light/medium sparring, spinning
- Lighter and brighter (thinner wall diffuses the light better)

Heavy grade (3mm wall):
- Noticeably heavier and stiffer
- Built for full-contact dueling — the kind where you're actually trying to hit hard
- Trade-off: dimmer blade, more tip-heavy feel

-most people asking about heavy-grade don't need it. If you're dueling full-contact, you also need safety gear (mask, gloves, ideally some armor) — at that point the blade is the least of your concerns. For everything else, mid-grade holds up fine.

The one exception: if you're a hard hitter doing repeated full-force contact, heavy-grade will outlast mid-grade. No way around physics.

One more thing worth knowing: no matter the blade grade, the tip is the most likely failure point — it's the weakest part of the whole assembly. A tip coming off mid-duel turns the blade into an open tube, and can send a tip and/or broken pieces hurtling at impressive speeds-which can be genuinely dangerous, especially with heavy contact. Check your tips regularly and replace the blade if the tip ever feels loose.

I wrote a longer version with maintenance tips here:

https://thehiltandblade.com/lightsaber-maintenance-guide/

Happy to answer blade/electronics questions in the comments.

I'm doing a Baylan Skoll cosplay. Studying way too much fine detail stuff - anyway...

All of the really nice light sabers I see sold for it have a brass colored pommel. Yet, when I watch the show and take still frames every single frame I can capture, it looks black to me.

Am I nuts? Color blind? Or is there some known factor about this that I'm unaware of like it changed midway through filming, or lighting made it look black but was really brass? etc.

This is a new parts series I've been working on for the Basesaber app. Curious to hear what you all think!

Hello there!

I’m new to the hobby and I recently got an SNV4 Pro TXQ Shin Hati v2. I was wondering if anyone knows how to get a screen accurate orange-red blade color with the slight flickering?

I tried using the ForcePark v2 app and apparently custom colors only apply to the first blade effect (stable blade). Ideally I’d use the “stable with flicker” blade effect but I can’t figure out how to turn it blood orange to look like Shin’s saber.

I’ve resorted to creating my own blade effect using saberopen’s V2 Basic Editor, it’s just that I’m not quite satisfied since there’s no OrangeRed in the preset colors (unlike the V1 editor) so I used HumpFlicker with stable red and stable orange at 130 speed. I’ve gotten pretty close but the flickering is not as subtle as I’d like. I’ve tried the V1 advanced editor but I can’t find any documentation how to use it and I’m confused lol.

Would totally appreciate if anyone has a Shin Hati blade style code I can copy onto my saber.

Thanks in advance!

Hey guys, I recently got an 89Sabers OWK3 with a Proffie V3.9, and it suddenly started freezing and saying “Font directory not found.”
I’ve been trying to narrow it down. The chassis works fine on its own, and everything still works with it installed in the hilt as long as the blade isn’t attached. Once I put the blade in and press AUX for the effects, it freezes and gives me that error.
Switching the kill switch off and on gets it working again, but then it happens again. I thought reseating the blade had fixed it for a moment, but no luck.
The battery says 56%, and it’s running the seller’s custom config with an 80cm blade. Could this be a battery or contact issue even though the error is about a font directory?
Has anyone had this happen and managed to fix it? I’ve recorded videos with and without the blade if that helps. Would really appreciate some advice.

Context: I work in visual effects and I've seen a lot of change due to AI. I see forums as bastions for learning that we ought to protect for the health and longevity of the internet and knowledge sharing in general. And yes, lightsabers have a lot to do with it!

Hello I've had this lightsaber for 2 years, I've used it here and there. Charged it and everything, but it started to not turn on at all now. I got the og batter tested and it was bad so I replaced it a new one. Everything else seems fine on the tube and the pins align, is there anything I'm missing or any1 that can give me sum pointers. In DFW,TX area if any1 local here can help out irl

So. I had no idea dropshipped sabers were a thing.

I kept getting ads for saberspro and I was in the process of printing my Din Djarin armor and thought i would splurge for their Mando Xenopixel because I was making the rest of the costume myself and i found the helmet for cheap. I just got the saber today and immediately noticed some red flags.
One: the instructions told me nothing on how to charge it
Two: once i figured it out and saw the battery inside I got pretty sketched out. It looks very cheap and reminds me of the shitty fake weed pens I used to smoke in high school. The battery gets waaaaay too hot when charging. Like to the point I’m never gonna leave the room if I’m charging it.

So after some googling I found a bunch of posts abt dropshipping from China and also how it’s not recommended to buy sabers from ads.

I’m wondering if anyone else has this saber and can give me some honest input. I’m not gonna lie, I like it. I’m not using this for combat I’m just trying to look cool on Halloween but I don’t want this shit to explode

Putting on my dunce cap for not doing my research

I'd made a Cal Kestis inspired lightsaber, and I made a matching shoto too. I used PVC and cardboard, and leather for the handle. I'm really happy with them.

This is a customized Ignition Sabers Mercury made to look the Meng family blade. There are 3 edison filaments on the outside of the handle beneath the wrap. This a no button build.

As some of us are aware, Sabermax has been scamming people for the longest period. I am building a case on them. Please send me any receipts of their wrongdoings

Some weathering jobs take a tad longer than others. Chemical reactions sometimes need time....if you want that nice green crusty patina. #vintage #lightsaber #maker #propmaker #weathering #sabermaker #starwars

As per my last post here it is

I’ve bought this hilt locally in Poland.
Paid around 125$ 👀

Hilt is in great condition, everything works smoothly.
It has Asteria 2.5 board.

Made this saber using the new website BASESABER (which is awesome by the way, you should check it out). I couldn’t figure out how to use the blade holder thing, so it’s loosely yet somehow tightly secured with two screws

Does anyone know if the RGBS16 core from the Hooked on Sabers saber linked below would fit in the Knight Crusader V2 SaberForge saber? Are cores a universal size? If so, that would save me a ton of money.

I got a double bladed lightsaber, have done my choreography and learned the basic flourish, and oh dear I wanna weather it. I'll post the weathering process if I do

This app is in BETA. And i'll make it open source after i learn how, XD.

This is a lightsaber app for android phones. You can switch between free font like Greyscale fonts and other free fonts.

This is for who can't afford lightsaber but wanna use all the font features, INCLUDING PRE-ON SOUNDS, and 1 easter egg.

Link to APK (GitHub page, you can find under Releases tab):

https://github.com/Aem2512/Crystals