Sewing a karategi

[u/klemkor]

Hello! I have just started karate some weeks ago (it's the most fun I've had in years and I can see myself doing it for ever), and as I love sewing as a hobby, I have started making my own gi. I have gathered a rough construction pattern from observing good gi from videos, because I don't have a sports shop that sells gi to look at, and I don't know the other practitioners at the dojo well enough to ask them to have a look at their pants 😅

I started with the pants and it is going ok so far, but I am a bit stumped on the gusset (that squarish part where the legs meet) and looking for info. My prototype ended up having a good shape for the legs when standing, but too tight when moving, like pulling a lot across the thigh and buttocks when lifting the knee for a maegeri.

My assumptions is that traditional gi are made with straight pieces of fabric, minimal shaping, minimal fabric waste. So the legs would be straight rectangles, and the gusset is what allows movement.

If you have a good heavy cotton traditional gi, would you mind sharing some details?

1. What's the shape of the gusset, when you spread it open? Perfect square, diamond?
2. What are the dimensions of it?
   
3. When you have the gi on, how far down the leg does the gusset start? (mid-thigh, above, below?)
4. How far down the front and back seams does it start, like how long is the straight seam between the two legs until the gusset is inserted?

[u/samdd1990]

The full measurements for gi are quite readily available.

Go to kurobiya and look at the sizing guides for different brands, I think the shureido ones are published too.

[u/Cautious_General_177]

I don’t have mine in front of me, but I’ll look when I get home from work. However, your best option is probably to buy a pair that fits you and use that as a pattern to make more for yourself.

[u/cmn_YOW]

The answer to all these questions is, "it varies by brand, size, and style".

Make a muslin, adjust to your preference.

[u/Empty_Ad_3784]

If I was part of your dojo I would not mind a new student asking to look at a gi, I would likely even bring a spare for you to use as a pattern! Kudos to you for being resourceful, don't be afraid to ask a sensei or senpai!

[u/gomidake]

The gusset is usually diamond shaped. And there are similar gussets at the armpits. Some brands have little holes on the armpit gussets for ventilation.

But yeah, most gi stores online will give you a full chart of all these measurements. I know for a fact Tokyodo (kuroobiya) has it because I'm going to order one soon

[u/micrographical]

Here is the size chart for the heavyweight Hirota dogi on Kuroobiya;

https://www.kuroobiya.com/shop/sizecharts/hirota_sizes.html

[u/Hanshi-Judan]

Back in the 70s and 80s I remember patterns being sold. Im not sure if they are still available or not anymore but worth a shot to see.