I have dealt with this Intermatic timer for the garage lights for too long, and was hoping to replace it. I prefer basic mechanical timers, but it seems like a lot need a 1 or 2 gang mount that'd be found in an interior instead of this box.

Is there one that is a straight swap? I'm also fine with using a new front plate or whatever, but this is beyond what I've done (just basic outlet swaps and installing a fan) and I'd like to learn.

This is a really stupid question but I have no education with wiring. The smoke alarm in my rental was chirping 3 quick chirps every 60 seconds. Troubleshooting it says it means fault. Because it was in the middle of the night I simply unplugged it from the wiring to get the beeping to stop. I do not have the breakers off because then it would kill all the smoke detectors which I don’t want to do. Am I safe to leave this wiring/plug hanging like this for the evening in the kids room? High ceilings and they cannot get to it.

I’m trying to replace this older receptacle with a new one. There is 2 red wires, 1 black, 1 white, 2 grey and a ground. Anyone know what I should do? (Ps. There is no switch connected to this)

Hi all I want to fix this issue in my garden. I have these meter tall light poles and they have wires connected inside of it but quite low and close to the ground. They were originally connected with Wagos but that’s not a good idea as connector easily gets dirt on it (ants love to pile it up). What connectors I could use instead? they need to be properly insulated for outside use and they need to be OK either 230V. Basically insulated Wagos. Space is tight, so I cannot put Wagos into gel box

thanks

Hey everyone, I’m a relatively new electrical apprentice working on a commercial construction project.

Recently, I heard that a foreman was going to be transferred to another job because the jobsite management supposedly didn’t like having so many union workers on site. Another foreman will be taking over, and the electrical work will continue.

I’m still learning how the union construction industry works, so I’m curious about a few things:

* Is it common for a GC to push back against having too many union workers on a project?
* Could this be related to labor costs, crew size, scheduling, or disagreements between the GC and the electrical contractor?
* If another foreman is replacing the original one, does that usually indicate a management decision rather than an attempt to reduce the number of electricians?
* Can a GC actually influence which foreman or how many electricians a subcontractor assigns to a job?
* As an apprentice, should I be concerned about situations like this affecting my work or future assignments?

I’m not trying to make assumptions or blame anyone. I just want to understand how these situations typically work in commercial construction, especially on union jobs.

Would appreciate hearing from experienced journeymen, foremen, and anyone who has dealt with something similar. Thanks!

I know extension cords can't substitute for fixed wiring. Does that apply to surge strips too? A short cord strip next to the outlet seems fine permanently, but what about a 10 ft surge protector strip used to reach a TV far from an outlet? Is there a length cutoff?

Could have happened between now and 29 years ago. How lucky was it that it did not cause a house fire?

Hey guys,

I have an electrician coming out to look at these tomorrow, but I was hoping to hear from you guys to see how urgent this is.

I found some old cloth wiring in my home, and one spot looks particularly frayed.

This is in the HVAC closet for reference, and I live in Metairie, LA. So I would like to avoid shutting the whole HVAC system down over this given the heat, but if this is an immediate fire hazard I'll shut it down.

Thanks so much for your help!

I took a shower earlier with a fan on and window open, but it was steamy in there.

I was drying my hair and all was well, lights on, nothing wrong.

Turned off hair dryer and all the power in my bathroom shut off. At first I thought it was easy - press the reset button my hair dryer or the gcfi outlet. Nothing. It doesn’t click.

We shut off the breaker and nothing happened. We replaced the entire outlet layer that night, nothing.

What’s happening here? My husband is pretty good with electric but we are stumped. Going to call an electrician but if it’s easy we would save some money.

Thanks!

The wires going into the outlet have power, the outlet has been swapped out, every other outlet in the room and on the breaker works perfectly fine. The bedroom shares a breaker with the bathroom right next to it and everything in that bathroom works fine. I have to assume the run starts from the GFCI in the bathroom right next to it. The one thing we haven't done is verify 120v as we don't have a multimeter. We are completely stumped on why a single outlet might not be working here. Any tips or ideas?

Our guest house has 4 separate thermostats that go to 4 separate electric baseboard heaters. I want to replace them with something digital and programmable. I believe they are 240V, line voltage. Any guidance would be much appreciated.

I have two pendant lights and my first one stoped working and replacing the transformer worked.
My second one stopped working so I replaced the transformer and after a week or so there was a pop in the pin connector and the light has stopped working. I tried replacing the pin connector but that is not working either.
I am reaching out to the transformer company but I’m ready to swap this to LED if it means I can get rid of the transformer.
Two questions.
1)Would I still be able to use a bi pin led or would I need to switch to a bulb
2) what kind of cord would I be able to use that has a similar brushed nickel look.

Hello!

I was given a Kenmore dishwater and tried to connect everything, but there doesn’t seem to be a place for the ground wire to connect on the appliance’s end. The wire from the appartment seems fine and has the black wire, the white wire and the one in the ground wire (middle one with no casing). Any help is appreciated as I know nothing about anything electrical. Thank you!

So I'm looking at picking up a circuit tracers for random work. Do industrial automation for a living but a bit of residential on the side. Trying to decide on a circuit tracer. Looking around $300 for one.

Recently used a Klein ET-450 at work and liked how quick and easy it was to use. But I've heard the Ideal SureTrace is good as well.

Normally I'd be looking at Fluke, but they don't have anything mid-range. It's either a cheapie that I wouldn't trust or one that's over $2k.

Which one do you guys recommend?

Hi! We have an electric fence for chickens, it is 0.8 joule, 12 v 15 amp lead acid battery, 10 watt solar panel. It's been charging enough to keep up with sunlight, but with a bunch of cloudy days it finally needed an indoor charge. I turned it off and plugged it in using the supplied charger in our house, and the wall (?) started chirping. At first I thought there was a coincidental cricket, it sounded just like that. So I moved it to another room. The chirping started there when I plugged it in. If it helps, when I unplugged it both places, the chirping continued for a short while and then stopped.

Is it dangerous to charge indoors? I've tried reaching out to the company (it was bought in April so is under warranty) and they were like "we've never heard of that so it's fine" but of course one cannot be too careful with electrical issues. If y'all say it's fine or normal I'll be more at ease, but as it is, I'm worried about when it needs an indoor charge.

(It charges fine in the sun when there is enough sunlight, and it is fine with electrifying the fence. It's only - potential - issue is this.)

Absolutely safe breakers.

Reducing washers

Hey all... I'm getting conflicting info on Google and I'm looking for what will pass inspection. My local hardware store does not stock 1.5 to .75 reducing washers... but i can get what I need done, and it looks good, everything is sitting flush and tight, by stacking 2 sets of washers, 1.5 to 1 and 1 to .75. Some sources say it's okay, others say they are not tested and approved for that so it's not NEC compliant.

What's the verdict?

I don't have high hopes, it's a cheap fan. There's no remote, it's controlled by drawstrings. The instructions don't mention a red wire, but online instructions that mention a red wire also say there should be another green grounding wire from the fan.