The first picture is the light fixture - it has transformers which have made this harder to install than the simple wire fixtures I have put up so far (including the ceiling light that used to be in this spot). The second picture is where the wires come out of the wall. I tried connecting both white wires to what I think is the neutral in the ceiling and both black wires to what I think is the hot wire. After connecting everything, flipping the breaker, and flipping the switch nothing happened. I'm not sure what the next steps are and what I can do from here.

Bonus problem is that the vanity light in the bathroom (on the other side of the wall) won't turn on ever since I tried this).

we just bought a smokers house (never do that) we shellacked the walls but smoke still coming from outlets.

is there a safe way to seal the smell in the wall? would that be something an electrician could help? could it be DIYed? thank you !

I need to get arc-fault breakers for my Murray panel LC4040B1200.

It is my understanding that my only code-compliant options are Siemens or Eaton CL. Is this correct information? Which would be better for my specific Murray panel ?

I read that the Siemens are more prone to nuisance tripping than the Eaton. Is this true? For simplicity sake, Siemens seems the way to go but I really do not want a lot of nuisance tripping.

I believe it is Eaton CLCAF115 (15amp) and CLCAF120 (20amp) that are compatible. Is this correct?

Is it acceptable to mix the Eaton CL (Murray compatible) breakers with the original Murray MP-T breakers?

NOTE: There are currently three Eaton BR breakers installed (two AF), which I'm looking to swap. (A professional inadvertently installed them as he requested CL but the store clerk gave BR and it wasn't realized until after install.)

Also, I just noticed there is a Cutler&Hammer BR15 breaker installed, which has been installed since I bought the place 5yrs ago. Should I replace that one, too?

(Included images of panel. Names were blurred with tools in photos, as per the no personal info rule.)

https://www.amazon.com/LVYUAN-1600W-Step-Down-Voltage-Converter/dp/B0H552ZJV2/

It says, “…provides clean AC 100-120V, 60Hz pure sine wave output from AC 200-240V, 50/60Hz input.”

That sounds like it outputs 60Hz regardless of if the input is 50Hz or 60Hz.

It sounds a little too good to be true because from my understanding, to convert 50hz to 60hz you would need to convert AC to DC and then back to AC.

​

What does the silver wire connect to?

I am in NZ. Single phase 230v 50Hz power. Tesla PW3 with PV cells and authorized to export up to 10kw. I am involved in a bidirectional EV charger trial and I'm not happy with the way it was installed - Tesla told the charger installer to wire it to the mains supply so it really works independently of the Tesla gear.

Question is, is there a reason I can't have the charger (~7kw) installed to my main board, so that when I charge my car it pulls energy from the PW3? It was initially installed and tested this way before advice from Tesla to change the install was received by the trial organizers. I know that part works... and cant see a reason it would be unsafe.

If I export ~7kw from the vehicle onto my main board what happens? My research-assisted assumption is that the house will use whatever and the rest would be "available" to charge powerwall or export, and the gateway can manage the solar side to keep total export at 10kw or less.

I think that the powerwall charging is managed by measuring total site export, and using excess energy to charge the powerwall, if correct then I would expect that when exporting ~7kw from the car, and house using less then Powerwall will charge before the gateway then starts exporting to GRID.

This is my preferred setup because then I can ise the powerwall as a charge/discharge buffer. The way it is installed now, the charger either pulls/exports to GRID independently of the tesla/house load which forces me into importing/exporting at peak rates when it makes no financial sense.

I am mounting a 50 amp outlet box and the wire is gonna be fed right where the crosshair is on the wall and come out about 3 foot away from the panel and 90 it to the panel from the hole what is my best option? I was thing 1” conduit with 6-4 wire thhn I am a interior carpenter so I’m not to knowledgeable what kind of fitting do I need to get the conduit to connect to the outlet box or do I just stab the wire through the home and only worry about conduit once it’s on the interior past the block ?

In our laundry room (100 year old chicago 3 flat) we had a light fixture that cracked. When I went to replace it, the caps popped off and all the wiring popped apart before I could mark or track anything.

Issue is somehow this set of wire also runs our back stair lights as well as outdoor.

3 Switched single bulbs in the back staircase

1 Auto light

2 other switched lights on the side.

Nothing is really marked as a swap accept for the junction box in pic three which is fed from the disaster conduit.

Main line seems to be on the R side (with a random red wire as well). Everything from the other images (2 and 3) run out of the L side of the conduit to others.

Ground also just runs back inside from the outside lights somewhere it seems and was just wrapped with the hot wires.

Its finally getting dark enough early its an issue lol Let me know if you need clarification on anything, I can wire a new house but undoing 100 year old stuff is brutal.

How best should I wire this back up until we eventual just re do the whole system before sale.

Help :( Thanks y'all

Hello, I purchased an 80 W standing grow light from the popular brand Sansi, for my growing house plant collection. I plugged it in and turned it on and after 15 minutes on full brightness (which I need to maximize the light for the purpose I bought it), the temperature of the body of the adapter was extremely hot to the touch. After checking it with a tool from our shop, I discovered it was 142 F.
After conversing with the company they sent me another of the same product. Same light, same adapter, same problem. I now have 2 lights I am fearful of using due to the temperature of the adapters in our brand new house.
I am attaching all related info I have. Including the last email I received from Sansi.
I understand that 80 W does not equal the listed 72W output on the adapter.
What can I do to remedy this?
Can you suggest an adapter that would work to power these lights?
Thank you in advance!

So we received four quotes to replace a challenger panel. We’ve narrowed it down to two companies.

One electrician said they would upgrade the panel to 200A. They also said we would get AFCI/GFCI breakers on the panel and a whole house surge protector. However, the quote was 12k. They said the panel wasn’t an imminent hazard and they would recommend replacing the old outlets/switches we have over all else if money is the concern as those are the biggest fire risk. An extra $1000 to replace the original 30 switches and outlets in our house.

The other electrician said It's not necessary to upgrade to the 200A as the wiring from the electric company is rated for our house. We would still be able to have an EV charger, induction stove, home offices, multiple refrigerators with the 150A. He noted the AFCI/GFCI breakers are not included and would be extra. Mentioned it is not needed to pass the city inspection, because the existing house wiring may not be compatible with those breakers. Quoted 6k. Also quoted me $30 an outlet/switch for swapping those out.

I received another quote for 12k and another quote for 2k, but those electricians didn’t give me the warm fuzzies.

How do I make sense of these quotes? My husband and his dad are big on DIY, but DIY electrical work makes me nervous. Our house was built in 1989 and has copper wiring.

And how can I fix? This is a chevy volt home charger, and only seen this when I just moved into this home. No breaker tripped. All functions seem normal. Its usually darrk so I didn't notice it. Maybe the outlet is bad?Is the charger plug still safe to use, or do I have to buy a replacement...?

i had a washer dryer installed by curry’s last week. just went to switch it on at the wall to do a load and noticed that the cable was half underneath the machine. i moved the appliance forward and freed up the cable but there appears to be a dent in it. is this safe?

Regular 120 volt 15 amp outlets with 14 gauge wire, but ungrounded, old style two prong duplex outlets. Can I replace one with a gfci outlet and use the circuit to (slowly) charge a Tesla ev? Eventually I'll add a 30 amp dedicated charging circuit.

I have seen these "simple installation, easy use" light socket ceiling fans and lights available for less than $30 at my local hardware stores (Menards, Home Depot, etc) under the brands of bell+howell, and others.

are these safe? like, is it a fire hazard? the thought of a fan screwing into a light socket just sends me... uneasy vibes.

This feels fairly cut and dried, but I'm an anxious person and very aware that I'm clueless about electrics so I wanted to check my diagnosis was correct so I can relax. I'm in the UK is that's relevant.

Had the ring circuit trip on my breaker board which also tripped one "RCCB breaker" (there's two of these, I don't know what they are but only one went off) everything else stayed in the on position, including the main red switch, but this turned off the power to everything in the flat.

It happened right as my kettle was about to boil. I had a few devices (TV, Games console and laptop connected to charger) and lights on but this is normal usage for me so if it was too much power usage, I'd assume this would've be a more common occurrence in the 11 years I've lived here.

Reset the breakers and they came on just fine, didn't trip when I turned the devices back on all working fine. Except the kettle which appears to be completely dead. My phone charger (easiest thing to test it with) worked fine in the same socket and the kettle is still completely unresponsive in other sockets so it's not the socket. No suspicious smells or anything dramatic.

It seems logical that my kettle has given up the ghost and decided to give the circuit a fright as one last act. Everything (except the kettle) has been running fine for almost an hour now. But I just want to be sure there's nothing else I should check or look into before I relax and potentially end up ignoring a problem.

Sorry if I'm asking a really basic or common question but every similar thread I found had additional factors.

Hi! We are replacing a light fixture and came across this wiring. What should next steps be? Is it as bad as it looks? Thanks so much for your guidance!

I’m making a motorized fursuit tail, but my components lead me to a question… I bought a ubec to step my voltage down and while it claims to be able to take power from a 6s battery but all the wires I bought for the battery side are at 12 gauge but the input wires for the ubec are 20 gauge, the wiring diagram that came with the seems to assume it would tap in to solder joints to pull its own power in parallel with a separate load but my use case doesn’t have a separate load to tap into. The closest I can get is I have 2 24v fans I might try and hook up for cooling purposes so that would result in 3 20 gauge wires running tapping into a single 12 gauge wire.

What’s the best way to go about this? Ai there a safe way to do that?

Hey all. I cut in and installed a ceiling fan off of a pre existing outlet. The work box is the junction box now. At the switch I hard wired everything and eliminated the switch so the ceiling fan and lights have constant power as the fan uses a remote.
The fan is now in my sons room and I’d like to be able to control it via my phone.
The fan and remote have dip switches and I’ve got two of these same fans in other rooms I’ve installed them in.
Unsure now to proceed if it’s possible.

Out of Ceiling:
Bare, green, black, white, red.

Out of fan:
Black, black/white candy cane, green, white

It has a pull chain for fan speed, and has an outlet with two switches for power.

I can’t get it to work, what am I doing wrong?

I turn the switch on and the unit hums.