I have ADC at 2 separate properties. 2 locations and subscriptions under the same account. I access them both under my master login and can flip back and forth in the app. Now, I want to set up a login account for the app that only sees the second property. I am sure I did this several years ago, but I can't for the life of me remember how. Can anyone explain it to my aging brain?

Hello!

I have a rental property and would like to have some cameras.

Here’s my dilemma, I cannot decide whether I want to do alarm.com versus Reolink.

I already have an alarm.com system with surety. I have a 2Gig Edge system.

I understand how Alarm.com integrates with the alarm.

I’m fascinated by the idea of the reolink app on my computer that I can have while I’m working from home.

If I went with the alarm.com, I would not get an SVR off the bat because they are kind of expensive. I would like to be able to view the cameras on the TV so I would need the SVR eventually.

Walk me through this, why did you choose one versus the other? What would you do differently? What should I do? Help?

Is there a way for the sensor door/open notification to log in the timeline without using secret alerts? Each time a door is opened or closed in my house EVERY CAMERA takes a video and it drains the ones that run on batteries. I just want to know when a door is opened/closed without having to announce it. I need to know this information when I am away and the kids are home alone or something like that. HELPPPPP!

I attempted to do an upgrade on my old Johnson alarm system and I bought an IQ 4 brain, and a few remotepanels to arm and disarm the system around my house. My house was pre-wired for switches at the doors and motion sensors and I’ve gotten everything hooked up to the panel with new resistors and it seems to function pretty well.

Ie. when I open and close doorsthe panel the remote panels chime and the IQ installer shows the door opening and closing etc.

What I can't figure out is the time/date -- every night it resets back to Eastern standard time (I'm west coast) so all the clocks on each panel is off by four hours.

I open up the IQ Installer reset the time to the correct time and date and all the panels reflect the new time however overnight the panels all reset the time four hours ahead to East Coast time and when I wake up instead of it being my time it’s four hours ahead.

I also can’t integrate it with my Control4 system because I can’t set the six digit code in the IQ Installer because it tells me there’s a partition error -- even though all of the sensors are on one partition.

Any ideas?

My 85 year old parents keep having punk boys (teenagers who know better) come up their walkway and then BANG as hard as they can on their front door at 2am. This happens OFTEN and I'm sick of it and want to do something. Is there an outdoor security-type system where I can put two laser beams (one on each side of their walkway) that once it is tripped, it will emit a loud siren OUTSIDE to scare them off? I don't need it to alarm INSIDE because that doesn't help scare these punks off. Any help or websites/companies that you can point me in the right direction? I am not a good DIYer so unless it's easy, I won't be able to McGyver-it myself. :) THANK YOU for any help!!!!

Expensive, CA$65 per smart plug from Telus for z-wave plug; jasco 79244.

The connection to alarm system was flaky until I got support to do it.

The alarm.com software does not support delays, when you arm the system the rules enact right away turning on it off the smart plug immediately, without waiting for the count down to be complete

On loss of power the smart plug turns on, versus polling to see what the state should be, or last state if off.

I am posting here since I have received zero feedback in homesecurity sub. I appreciate any insight.

I've got a 2GIG EDGE panel monitored through Surety (Alarm.com dealer) and I'm trying to decide whether to stay in the Alarm.com ecosystem for cameras or jump to Reolink.

**My situation:** I rent, so I can't run permanent Ethernet or do any hardwiring that isn't reversible. That's steered me toward PoE cameras paired with PoE-to-WiFi bridges instead of pulling cable — specifically:
ADC-SG130 (Alarm.com Smart Gateway) as a dedicated Wi-Fi access point for the camera devices

ADC-W110 PoE-to-WiFi bridges so I can use PoE cameras without running Ethernet

Camera lineup: an ADC-VC728PF above the garage, an ADC-VC838PF in the backyard, and a second ADC-VC728PF on the east eave covering the front yard/street side (corner lot near a stop sign, so a fair amount of foot/car traffic)

Doorbell (ADC-VDB780B) is on hold — found two existing low-voltage wires at the door and need to multimeter test them for 8-30VAC before committing to a wired unit

Eventually want an SVR (local recorder) for 24/7 recording + HDMI output to a TV, but that's a future purchase, not part of this round

**Why I'm second-guessing it:** the Alarm.com camera hardware + gateway + bridges adds up fast, and I keep seeing people recommend Reolink for better image quality and lower cost per camera, especially with their NVR options for local storage.
So — for anyone who's used both: is it worth staying all-in on Alarm.com for the integration with my existing panel/monitoring, or would you go Reolink for the cameras and just keep Alarm.com for the alarm side? Also open to hearing if there's a smarter way to handle the "renter, no permanent wiring" constraint than PoE bridges.

I love the Vivint hardware but am scared out of my mind about the horror stories - and I don’t care for the price of their equipment.

Zone 1 is the 2 wire smoke zone, and we use the RRS-MOD and 4120 trigger cable. If we program it as a Type 9, it sends a “fire alarm” every time the smoke detector sounds. Example - a smoke detector falses, the end user silences it within a minute, but the panel might sends 60 alarms. So Honeywell says to create a fire alarm under Type 90. That’s fine, it works……but it does note show up as a sensor in Alarm.com because they don’t have a zone type 90. And that means that there is no controllability from the partner portal/mobile tech. Which then means you have to roll a truck immediately if there is a runaway, there’s no way to shut it off remotely.

Sorry for the long post….just wondering if anyone has dealt with this.

Has anyone else noticed that the IQ4 has been having issues staying connected to known internet routers within the last couple of months? I've gotten a few calls recently with that, having figured out how to fix it.

I’m curious if anyone has ever tried this.

My daughter(7 years old) overhears me talking about my job and she’s getting pretty interested in it. I wanna foster that interest. She has a playroom with a hollow core door on it and I’m wondering if I couldn’t put a zwave lock on it, paired with a zwave key fob that she could use to “allow us access” to her playroom provided we give her the right “password”. I’m not sure if I’m in the right sub but the rule would have to be built into the ADC environment working with a IQ4.

My thoughts are we’d still have control through the app /panel to open it but give her the illusion of access.

For some reason, the entire first year of having them i never received this warning. But from the 2nd year onwards, this comes up every month.
There has not been an increase in activity, actually maybe a decrease.
Did something change about the upload capacity this year?

Has anyone upgraded to iOS 27 yet? Does the app and all features still work? I am nervous because I remember how long it took to get widgets back last time we lost them from an update.

I have a tl880le with an hs2064 I’ve been having issues with my communicator connecting to alarm.com oddly enough when I disconnect the battery it seems to connect. Does anyone see any reason why that would happen or is it maybe coincidence

I use both Ring and Alarm.com’s app and it’s pretty noticeable how much faster the Ring app is. For example, when you get a video notification and click it, the video feed pops up super quick on Ring. With Alarm.com’s app, it takes like 2-3 seconds to load every time I do the exact same thing. First world problem but wish the app was snappy like Ring.

Hello, I have a guardian system that came with the house/builder, it uses the ADC-VDB750. I think this summer heat did mine in, as it just failed (just about 3 years old). I'd had to reset it a few times over the last month as well, but it's been exceptionally hot in NC this summer. Now it just seems completely dead.

Looking at replacing with ADC-VDB775. Anything a layman homeowner should consider around this replacement? Any wiring difficulties to consider? I'm hoping it's just a pop/swap and add it to the guardian app, if that's possible.

If it's not the camera but a power issue, I have a voltage meter or could even try an older ring camera I have from the old house I could use as a test.

Thank you!

I have a Napco 1016 that served us well for 33 years. It appears to have finally reached the end of its life as it has begun indiscriminately chirping at the keypads.

Is there an updated system I could pretty much install in its place, using all the same window, door, motion, and smoke detectors? I don’t need wireless or cameras.

Looking for ideas to automate my bathroom fan since my wife has difficulty remembering to turn it on when she showers. I currently have a ZEN76-800LR for the bathroom light and have the fan on a separate Leviton humidity sensing switch. Issue is that the panel is far enough from the shower that it turns on late or not at all during a shower. If I turn up the sensitivity the fan will turn on during HVAC cycling. A couple possibilities I’ve thought of.

1. Get the fan on another Zooz smart switch and set up scenes so that the fan turns on/off when the light is turned on/off. However this won’t let me have the fan stay on after the light is turned off for like an hour which would be ideal.

2. Wire both into the same smart switch so that they both turn on/off together. Not sure if there is a zooz option for this? I do like to keep the bathroom light on a smart switch since my wife will leave the light on when going to bed.

Unfortunately I don’t think ADC allows for humidity sensors to trigger scenes or else I would stick one above the shower. While I like to use ADC for as much automation as I can there are some limitations that feel quite restrictive.