Is this possible? I was looking at 3d printing a lower since my older one has a cracked receiver. A lot that I see are only compatible with the threaded end caps which had me thinking… if i added a threaded end cap, I could probably just glue the crack back together and keep it original.

Will there ever be collector value to keeping it factory original? Otherwise are there any lowers that could be printed for the old style end caps which were just plates on the back of the plastic receiver?

A week ago I texted my LGS letting them know I was looking for a Tec-9. They called me Friday to let me know they had one with my name on it. Pretty nice shape and it came with a Cobray faux can.

Question for TEC-9 owners out there - is it normal for the recoil spring guide rod and striker spring guide rods to be able to slide out the rear of the buffer plate? Or are they supposed to be permanently fixed to the plate?

They have little crimped ends on them so they cannot slide out the front of course - but are those crimped ends supposed to hold them permanently to the plate, or is it normal for them to be able to be slid out the back?

Been searching forever online and can’t find any discussion on this. My concern is, if they can move backwards, aren’t the rod ends possibly striking the threaded end cap during recoil?

Never seen these two guns side by side before, I now own both so Id figure id post a little comparison, believe it or not I think the tec 9 is actually more reliable so far haha, I just did a deep clean of the encom mp9 so hopefully it’ll run better.

I will throw this out there that this is not happening right now at the moment, but I am thinking sometime for sure this year possibly before end of summer. I retired a little over a year ago and we're looking at downsizing and possibly moving down south to avoid the harsh Northern Winters. With this thought comes the mindset that I will be unloading my class 3 weapons when it comes time to pack up and go south. It will take a few years before we make the southern move but there are a few things I must do to our property before it can be sold and I will be using said class three items to do this. I'm telling this because one of the items for sure is my registered CATCO tec-9 open bolt. I have thought about this for a while and I will be packaging the registered bolt with a Tec DC 9 due to the threaded end cap and also a KG-99 pistol. The KG-99 will be included because it will be the perfect host to be modified into a clone of an MP-9 by way of a stock adapter utilizing quarter inch rods to simulate the factory MP-9 pull-out stock. Also included will be an original interdynamic front vertical grip. Be foreworned, this will not be cheap and it will go at the current market pricing for a full auto tec-9 style weapon. The registered bolts were always considered a premium because they pretty much won't break like a registered receiver possibly could break. My other class three items will be brokered through one of the many class 3 dealers but I definitely will try to market the catco bolt here to fellow enthusiasts first.

Form 1’d this hoe! Waiting on the stock in the mail 🙂‍↔️

Quite fun to shoot! Like punching a fist thru the paper. Kinda accurate.

how much would it cost to buy a stock adapter like the MP-9 and handguard or if theres a print for the handguard online?

I have a tec-9 in good condition, what can I do to prevent it from rusting? I see a bit of rust from the sights so I'm just making sure what I can do so it doesn't spread anywhere else and without losing value!

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So I'm watching episodes of SWAT on Netflix and in season 2, episode 11 the evil gun featured in this episode is a Tec-9 being used in school shootings. I think the writers took a rip off of Columbine.

At 31:01 a close up of the shooter holding the gun shows it to have blade sights. This means it is one of the very early Tec-9's with the leftover KG-99 uppers on it or it is a KG-99 being called a Tec-9.

Got a Tec recently that came with a mag. it runs fine, but it started to make a rattling noise? Any idea on what causes this? I want to remove the plate on the bottom to inspect it, but idk how to do that.

Its real. Aluminum Full Length Top Rail, modified magpul lower rail, national mag 50 rounder, machined hk slap slot (look closely), rattle can paint kg-99 with hand tapped rear threaded steel cap. 500 rounds no failures. Nothing but pure fun! I cant justify a b&t, stribog or cz due to all of thier problems. They all have plastic mags that crack and soft bolts that peen up. ​

What can I do to make it shoot better what attachments can I add or what parts can I upgrade it has a little rust not a lot it doesn’t look brand new what magazines can I get any suggestions or recommendations ?

I’m looking for one and if I find one, I want to know how much I should pay

I’m just curious if that part can be taken off

Which is more sought after?

Are the factory barrel extensions the same?

Figured I'd come to this group with this kinda question since yall helped me with the sere issue I had. My Tec double feeds like it is its second job and help would be appreciated. I have 4 mags and 3 of the 4 its the worst on and I have one good mag so im thinking its thag.

Ok. So I have this kg99 that’s a wall hanger at the moment do to a broken buffer pad/recoil pad. Anyone know a fix? I’m not technically inclined what so ever and honestly don’t wanna mess with cutting a new one out, as has been suggested to me before.

Im trying to install my new firing pin from usmachineguns and it will not fit in the striker. Do I have to force it in because it's a new part? The old one easily just drops in.

Just snagged this baby , I’m assuming the 3 digit SN# makes it an early manufacture ?

So I recieved my tec 9(it has a dc9 lower but definitely a tec 9 or kg99 upper) from gun broker last week. I finally had time today to disassemble clean it real good(wasn't dirty at all) and put it back. With the aid of a youtube video it was super simple. I load up the mag and take it out to my range and all I get is a click. So I charge the handle to eject the unfired cartridge and tried several more times, letting the bolt slam forward and also riding the bolt forward slowly both ways same result. No signs of strikes of the primer at all. The firing pin looks straight. Could I have put it back together incorrectly somehow? Could it be a mag problem? It seats and locks up fine in the lower.