I don't remember printing these

I’ve been wearing my printed clogs daily since late March 2026, and I only recently had my first break. It was a stress fracture along the vamp, the part of the shoe upper that flexes when you walk. They handled outside and inside wear just fine, and using a foaming filament like SirayaTech’s PEBA Air allows you to vary the temperature and resulting softness with object modifiers. New infill options in Orcaslicer like Locked Zag can be used to add compliance without sacrificing strength. These patterns are designed to be used without walls, with a configurable skin that can be adjusted for the desired feel and appearance. TPMS-FK is a biomimetic infill pattern that imitates the inner microstructures of bird bones, seeking to balance strength and energy return, an ideal combination for the midsole of a shoe. PEBA Air goes down to approximately 73A shore hardness at 270C, soft enough to be comfortable against the skin when it’s printed dry with good surface uniformity. All foaming filaments have oozing problems that must be mitigated by turning off retraction, but any stringing can be easily removed by hand, and cleanup is much easier than other types of flexibles.

I’m returning to my project armed with six months of deep thought about how to further optimize my settings for maximum interlayer adhesion in the upper section that’s printed with Locked Zag infill. Here you can see the various modifier zones of the model and the different infill patterns and temperature increases indicated by the lighter shades of black. I’d love to field questions and help anyone who’s trying to master these new foaming flexibles.

I got the all seeing eye pumpkin model from MysteryMakers on Patreon (they shared a video here of the original project about 2 years ago) and added an mmwave sensor. The pumpkin can now detect a person and the distance/angle so it can open the eye automatically and follow a person around. Cool thing about this sensor is that it can see through many materials such as printed pla and I was just barely able to fit it in the original design with minimal adjustments. Only had to change 1 part.

Unfortunately it’s not a free project but the small cost of membership was less than the costs of components.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DeaROLZNOLw/?xtok=d3g1bHd1cjVudjRm

Like the title says. My son removed the plate at some point and I didn't properly check before printing. I let the piece cool but still can't break it all off. Printer is a Anycubic Kobra S1. Is this something where I can replace the platform or can anyone give some tips?

Thank you in advance for any time and consideration. I really appreciate it.

As title states this is a 1:1 rendering of the classic Lego skeleton mini fig turned into a kit card. I've been trying to figure out more designs to print to give out to the neighborhood kids for Halloween and I figured this would be one they like. Unfortunately because of all the curves and angles it does need supports but you should be able to pull them off and still leave the pieces connected to the card sprues before giving them out.

Default profile is set to 200% because the bigger you get the better it looks on a standard 0.4 nozzle printer. You can do 100% but it's a little rough unless you switch to a 0.2. Or scale it up even larger.

Model is on Makerworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3431319-brick-man-skeleton-kit-card-movable-scalable

got this afinia H479 from my highschool, $1599 msrp and now its barely worth the parts its made of. thinking about tearing it down to build a modern corexy like the voron 0.

I work for an automotive museum in Los Angeles and I am looking to hire someone for some commission work based on the image. We are looking for similar model kits but based on the cars from the museum.

We plan to use them for various purposes throughout the museum, but mostly in our education department, for kids that visit the museum and potentially in retail if we can get the quality we are looking for.

We have BambuLab printers onsite and can print in multiple colors. I am hopeful that we can find someone to pay as I don’t want to use AI for this project. We are a non-profit but are willing to negotiate.

Is there a community to find people that can design these?

* Please note, not my photo above. I found something online that I wanted to use as an example.

I love this technique 🥵

Tutorial: https://youtu.be/0Cv7SD7GA8w

https://makerworld.com/models/3430007?appSharePlatform=copy

So 1-2 times a year I get together with my friends for a game weekend at a cabin. We usually play Magic the gathering, but we've recently have started doing some DnD campaigns. I always end up bringing some really stupid alcoholic beverage (mostly) as a joke. This year? The BUZZBALL! So I decided to model a holder for the buzzballz, shaped as potion bottles. I have 5 versions (health, mana, energy, poison, galaxy), but if people are interested I can also upload the .step files so you can make your own.

Lemme know what you think!
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3429685-potionballz-circular-beverage-holder#profileId-3909952

The dark side of the Force is a pathway to many abilities some consider to be unnatural.

And bourbon… bourbon helped.

I desiged a small and compact tripod, that still isn't too small, after my main tripod was way to big for taking on hikes or similiar activites. I've tested it on multiple occasions and I've improved the design (final design is the render). The design is free on Makerworld and Printables (link in comments).

It's been fun having the whole family work on something together. It was supposed to be a simple little thing and now it is a full blown business fully legit! I have been a part of the 3d printing community for a while but I never though it could be something other people valued like this.

If you want to buy something something for you for your loved ones feel free to check us out!
https://qfamilymagicshop.com/

For anyone wondering we have an Elegoo centari carbon 1 with canvas and most of the tricks are out of PLA but most of them have hardware embedded in them which has been a steep learning curve.

My print has failed in this way twice in a row. I don’t know what to change to make this not happen. Please help! Thank you

Found an absolutely amazing model on both MakersLab and Thingiverse by OkThen named Springtrap Full Suit. Took 5KG of Sunlu PETG in black, a wood burning knife to weld the pieces together (and hot glue when that didn’t work), and 3 weeks of my sanity. Was still a super fun project to work on, still WIP technically since i still need to print the feet but I was too excited to pop him out front for Halloween!!

I am fairly new to the 3D printing and warhammer hobby but I wanted to combine both to make a safe and decently good looking stand for my miniatures. I didnt like the simple shelve where you just stuff all your minis.

So i designedthe individual 40mm base holder i previously designed one for the 32mm bases and will expand this collection for sure!

I model in Fusion360 and Sketchup.

If you are interestedin printing this yourself the link to my model page can be found in my profile.

New to tpu, help!

I think the middle inner wall needed more thickness and supports but the outer wall what causes those gaps?

I am trying to print some rc truck wheels with tpu first attempt had 3-5 layer thickness it wasn’t extremely rigid but still too rigid for what I wanted the attempt you see above was trying with just one layer thickness and I’m curious if there are any other issues here or if it’s just one layer Thats the problem

I’m printing on a bambu a1 with elegoo 95a tpu default settings for generic tpu

I am currently sizing some files for a costume that i'm working on and I've gotten most of them but there's one problem with one. It has 20 MILLION POLYGONS! I can hardly get this thing to load anywhere except Blender and MeshLab both of which are incredibly slow once it's uploaded. I have been trying to reduce the Polygon count on them on both programs but they both can't handle getting rid of that many polygons. Please give me some help on how I can get this thing less detailed.

I started to learn 3D printing this week, and this is my first piece, an incense holder: )

Open to everything, I wanna get some fun inspiration to build.

What

What is happening I just picked up this makeblock 3d printer from a friend and he said it hasn’t been used for almost 5 years.