My BP ate his first meal 24 hours ago. But, for at least the past 6 hours, he’s been sitting on top of his warm hide basking under the DHP. I use 2 DHPs for my heat source and they’re on 24/7. You can see the probe for the thermostat attached to the wall and it’s set at 90°F. I used a cheap temp gun as well and inside his hide it was mid 80s. After he ate I didn’t expect to see him come out at all. Should I turn up the thermostat higher than 90°F until the conditions inside the hide are hot enough or would removing the obstructions from on top of his hide make the DHPs heat it better? I can’t currently move them without disturbing him while he digests. Let me know if I’m overthinking this please.

As the title reads, im currently making a new enclosure

Just trying to gauge as to whether this is too close for the basking spot I had in mind?

~18cm from the mesh to the shelf, and an additional 6cm past the mesh for the halogen

Is this too close or will it be fine? I plan to use a 50w halogen paired with a CHE

Were right in some of the coldest parts of the winter storm happening right now- i went to go check on my girlie a few hours into the storm and im not sure if a power surge happened or what but all her lamps were off and she was absolutely freezing cold. we dont have great heating in our building so the lamps turning off meant the whole room was cold. it was really strange, her lights got turned off but not our beardies who was just in the next room over

i have her sat in my lap wrapped in a blanket on top of a heat mat (the people kind thats covered in fabric) but is there anything else i can do? can heating her up too fast cause harm?

my partner works at a vet clinic and we will be watching for any signs of illness, her lamps are back uo and running but id like to make sure shes warmed up nice and good before leaving her in her tank again. any advice would be appreciated!

hi! i just adopted this 6yr old guy from a friend who is moving. she gave me the tank & all accoutrements including a large humidifier i have running next to it. i’m wondering about heat though. he came with one hot bulb that is on a timer and goes off at night. that didn’t seem like enough so i ordered a ceramic heating coil. so now there’s the bulb in one side of this light and the coil in the other side. one side of the tank is reading 78 degrees and the other 82 degrees. is that ok? should they be in separate bulb houses? he was in his hide all day but when i came home and put the ceramic coil in he came out so hopefully that’s a good thing? i’ve never owned a snake before just going off of what people are saying on here! appreciate the advice in advance!

Last night Stringbean kept me up because she kept busting through the metal wiring of the roof of her enclosure. I would wake up and put her back in and try to press the metal wires back into place but she would just bust them open again. Finally I realized these temporary solutions wouldn’t work so I just got up and got some tools to bend the wire all the way into place and also duck taped some paper on top.

Seeing this happen I knew something must be wrong to cause her to want to leave. Her cool side thermometer/humidity sensor just broke the other day so I need to get a new one. (Side note do y’all have any good cheap recommendations? I got the govee one but it constantly needed new batteries and now it broke from seemingly nothing) I have noticed the warm side has been getting a little too warm at 95F so maybe that’s it? Should I just get a light with lower wattage? I also haven’t changed out her bedding in a while so maybe that could help?

My final theory is that she’s hungry. She recently broke her hunger strike but only to eat small mice which probably aren’t filling enough so maybe getting her back on rats will help? I was planning on doing this soon I just didn’t want to feed her right after feeding her mice.

EDIT TO ADD: I have put a new lamp and CHE bulb in my cart, just gotta wait until I can afford to get it bc the heat tape ran me so much. Aside from the risks, it's not as effective as I was told it would be, so the risks are pretty rapidly outweighing the reward. Don't use heat tape on glass, friends. Still need a winter insulation plan though!

I know this is a lot, please bear with me, I'm autistic w/ a severe anxiety disorder, confused because of mixed information, and I have a hard time asking for help with my snake because, well, people can be pretty mean sometimes when you don't know things that seem obvious to everyone else. I'm sorry in advance for the text bombardment.

On that note! I need some help figuring out how to properly insulate a Reptizoo terrarium that's heated with reptile heat tape from Cornell's World. It's on 1" spacers on a cargo shelf that gets really good airflow, taped down with HVAC tape, with an Inkbird thermostat probe taped directly to one of the heating element strips in the middle of the heat tape, on the underside - not between the tape and the glass. It gets very cold and dry here in the winter, around -30/-40 celsius, and my room can get drafty so I am definitely doing to need to insulate it by mid-fall, but for now El Nino is keeping it pretty tropical in here so it's not something I need to do today. I got a month or two still!

I just set the heat tape up today after my prior heating source, a heat lamp with a ceramic heat emitter bulb, shorted out and caught fire in front of me last week after nearly 3 years of service. Since I was right there I was able to yank it out of its garbage old petland thermostat and throw it into the bathtub before anything else was damaged, and my lovely girl is unharmed, and it's been warm enough this summer that I was able to rig up a human heating pad on top of her tank for some semblance of a heat gradient. Now I am just going through the process of acclimating the tape/tank.

Obviously it scared the hell out of me, and I already had a bad experience with a storebought heating mat in the past failing in the middle of winter, so I finally swapped to heat tape and a good Inkbird. Trial and error and all that.

Except now that I have the heat tape set up, there's a moderator on Morphmarket telling me I actually need to insulate between the heat tape and the glass with some kind of grid stuff and fancy green foam or else the glass will shatter instead of giving me external insulation ideas, and now my anxiety's through the roof because everything I read said the heat tape doesn't work properly if it's not flush against the glass and said NOT to insulate the heat tape, and I DEFINITELY can't see it working in the winter if there's a bunch of space between the heat tape and the glass when my room gets cold. But also, if her tank shatters, I can't really afford to get her a new one out of the blue. I know I can always put her in a big sterilite tub if I have to, but I also don't want her to get hurt if the glass gives out. I guess I'm just sort of looking for someone to ease my anxiety? Is the new heat tape really going to shatter the terrarium, even if it's on a thermostat? Logically I feel like as long as the thermostat probe is in the right place and my snake or I don't spill water into the tank, it'll be fine, but I didn't think my heat lamp would spontaneously combust either and it did, so now I'm not so sure. I looked it up and Reptizoo claims the tanks are made of tempered glass, and if the thermostat works the way it should, the heat tape shouldn't get hot enough to break tempered glass... right?

I know glass isn't the best, but it's what I've got and I do plan to get her a proper PVC enclosure in the future when she's larger and when I can rearrange my teensy tiny room to make more space for something bigger than a 40gal. I'm currently doing the best I can for a little creature that was given to me as a gift when I was making a little bit more money. I still put more of my money into her than I do into myself, I just don't make much anymore to begin with, so while she's fed, warm, and happy with the best coco husk-moss bedding blend I can make and clean water and good hides, I have to clarify two things. First thing: I can't afford any big upgrades. Second thing: I didn't go out and buy a snake knowing I couldn't afford it. And no, I can't rehome her nor do I want to, she's my baby, and even if I tried to do that, at best she'd just end up in a sad Petsmart tank for several hundred dollars because she's a BEL. I have to clarify these things because when I ask for help in other forums the first thing I get told is 'if you couldn't afford a snake you shouldn't have bought one'. I also don't think I should have to give her up just because I am broke, you know?

Hello all—

Currently in the finishing touches of setting up my enclosure so I can bring my boy home. Humidity is looking good, rats are ordered, hides and clutter are in— even my last piece of last second enrichment is almost here! The only remaining issue currently is getting the warm side up to temp.

Presently, my setup is as pictured; a DHP on the warm (right) side, halogen next to it for basking and warming, and a third halogen more towards the cool side to hold the gradient. I’m running 35W halogens in my domes, which seems to be working well (cool side is maintaining consistent temps so far, just messing with the values to dial it in), but my 50W DHP seems to be lackluster. I have the herpstat set to 108 on my DHP right now to try to heat the substrate / enclosure up, but it’s only achieving 74 degrees.

Kind of unsure what to do presently, obviously I’m not going to give my buddy a poor quality of life by shoving him in a tank that has improper temps so I’m all ears. Would it make sense to go to a higher wattage DHP? Different lamp fixture? My Herpstats are currently set up so that my DHP is independent on a Herpstat 1, running a night cycle and daytime temps, and my halogens are on a Herpstat 2 together on a timed socket for day and night. I’m leaving them on full time presently to heat the enclosure up, but should I remove decor so the substrate is getting directly heated?

Halogens are currently set to 95 and 85 degrees in freedom units, and again the DHP is at 108 while I try to heat the ambient up. When my boy Melvin is in the enclosure, I want to make sure the temperatures on my Herpstats don’t exceed any value that can cause the screen to heat up and burn him correct? Or is this different with a DHP?

Thanks for the help, bonus Melvin tax and his new climber I built attached!

Quick edit: I just used my temp gun to check his climber’s temp on his warm side, and it was at 85. My Govees are on the ground by his hides on either side, which are still reading ranges in the 70’s, but the DHP isn’t doing nothing which is nifty. Just need a better overall heat.

My BP is a three year old male, and I have him in a 4x2x2, with a mix of coconut fiber and bark as substrate, which is about 2 inches tall. I have a 150 watt CHE connected to a thermostat which has an upper limit abd lower limit temp. The lamp turns off when the probe underneath it is at the upper limit and turns back on when it’s at the lower limit. I pour 2 cups of water in the four corners of the cage once a week, covered the top with reflective material, and have added sphagnum moss which I lightly mist a few times a week.

However, my temperatures are constantly dropping and so is my humidity. It’s getting colder in the northeast now and the cold side of the cage is sitting at 70-72 F, and I know it shouldn’t be below 75. However, my hot side is sitting at 92-95 F. My humidity is also at an all time low despite everything I’m doing to keep it up, I’ve never once had it at 70, it’s always at 52-55.

I could try increasing the heat lamps limits, but then the hot side would be way too hot, and the humidity would dry out even more. I am thinking about getting a dimming thermostat, which would maybe prevent the humidity from drying out, but the low temps would still be a problem.

I truly have no idea what to do. I’m so worried about not being able to keep up wtih his care, and the temps will drop even further as winter approaches. I have included pictures of his enclosure, both the digital and analog hygrometer/thermometers, the temp on the cold side, hot side, and the hide he’s currently in. Please, any help is appreciated.

I need something that will turn off the UVA and UVB in the evening but will turn on the CHE for overnight. I've been looking but all I can find is all on/off.

Do I need to run 2 separate timer systems or does anyone know of a singular system that can do what I'm looking for?

EDIT: bonus points if there is a built in thermostat as well. I'm basically looking for an all-in-one thermostat/dimmer/timer light management system but dont know if they exist lol

Im reading one of the "basic ball python" sheets from this reddit and im confused is RHP bad or not?

Hello, I’ve just received a 3 year old male BP from a friend of mine. He’s in a 4x2x2 enclosure with a mix of coconut fiber and husk as the substrate. There’s a 150 watt CHE on the left side of the cage and just a light on the right side. I have an internal analog hygrometer and thermometer m but also a digital thermostat and thermometer as well. My issue is that my humidity is stuck at 45-49% and that my temperatures are high. I’ve tried pouring 2 cups of water into each of the four cage corners, but that hasnt increased the humidity at all. I have some foil on the top of the cage, but I peeled it off the left side because I’m worried it’ll increase the heat too much. As for my temperature issues, The external thermometer is connected to a prove which lies in the middle of the cage and reads 90, as does the internal one. However, when I used a heat gun it read 110 on the hot side and 80 on the cool side. Should I use a 100 watt bulb instead? Now this is his first day in a new home, so I’m not sure if I’m just being impatient, but I have no idea how to get his humidity up. Any help is appreciated!

To preface I have read through all the guides, but having no experience with this I need some additional input

I have a 5ftW x 2.5ftD x 3ft tall enclosure that isn't yet set up and can't figure out what heating arrangement is appropriate for that size.

For the hot side, I was thinking 2 halogen floods but have no idea what wattage is appropriate. I'm planning on using my height so can have a raised basking zone if needed. (UVB and lighting I don't need advice on). Similar question about wattage for one (?) DHP a bit further towards the middle.

For the cold side, I'm in the UK so our inside temps can get cold at night (under 18C) so maybe a smaller DHP on that side to keep ambient temp up in winter? (Also due to being in the UK I can't find a good source for RHPs so they aren't really an option).

Understanding which wattages to use is my main problem so help with that is appreciated! I'll test whichever setup I do (will also get dimming thermostats) but want to save on the amounts of returns/tests I have to do for bulbs

I got Kaa just about a month ago and he arrived in shed. His shed was perfect and full, he ate for me a week or so after his shed. So he seems like he is doing well so far. The enclosure is 4x2x2 PVC (HVAC tape covering most of the mesh top), coco husk substrate and I use a DHP for day time and a CHE for nighttime. Both have thermostats. My question is about my ambient vs. substrate/basking temps. I found that if the digital thermometers/thermostats said 88-90, the substrate and basking spots were waaaay too hot. My digital thermometer/hygrometers say 83, while the substrate/basking says around 88-90 on the hot side. Should my ambient temp show higher even if the substrate is the correct temp? The probes are on the hot side about halfway up the enclosure wall as seen in the photos. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I have a 4ft wide, 2 ft tall enclosure for my sweet girl. I just got her recently (4yr old rescue- my first reptile) and for the life of me I cannot get her enclosure to temperature… ive tried 3 different heating systems. I dont keep my apartment very cold or anything! Please any suggestions… I have the top covered as well. I feel so bad her humidity/temp isnt right!! Please help.

I’m looking into getting a radiant heat panel for my ball python who’s in a 5x2x2 enclosure. I’ve heard they don’t make the room as hot as bulbs. I do have a thermostat to put it on so it’s not overheating. My main question is what wattage/size would be appropriate?

Dubia has the sizes and wattages as so:

40 Watt - 8 3/8"x 7 3/8"

80 Watt - 9 3/8" x 12 3/8"

125 Watt - 11 3/4" x 15 7/8"

220 Watt - 18 3/4" x 17 3/4"

Also, do you recommend putting the heat panel on the roof of the enclosure, or on the “warm sides” wall?

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, I have a 4x2x2 PVC tank for my boy and I am struggling so much with the heat gradient for this tank. The RHP is all the way on the warm side, my UVB light covers half ( I know this is not the issue as I have issues at night) there are a lot of ventilation holes in the tank so I don’t know if that is contributing. I placed the probe directly under the heating panel few inches. I do want to correct this as soon as possible as my snake has health issues and I want everything to be good for him. Herpstat is set to 91, actual temp is 87, cold side 81.5. Any help would be appreciated - thank you!

I currently have a 4x2x2 Dubia Enclosure for my ball python. I’ve been having a lot of trouble keeping my temps where they should be. I have most of the screen covered in hvac tape as well as some acrylic sheets. I am using an 80 watt deep heat projector and a 75 watt halogen bulb connected to the herpstat 2. I have my probes hanging about 4” below the heat sources. During the day the basking spot is getting warm enough, between 95-100 Fahrenheit. However the ambient temps are around 80 on the warm side and 73 on the cold side. At night temps stay between 73-75 on both sides. I’ve played around a lot with different watts and moving my probes around. I’m aware that dubia enclosures are known for not holding heat well (I wasn’t aware when I bought it). Does anyone with the same enclosure have advice? Should I just buy a new enclosure? I’d like to make this one work if possible so I don’t have to spend a crazy amount of money. But if it came down to it I could buy a new one.

Currently in the process of putting my 4x2x2 together. I’m curious what y’all have for heating in yours as I need some advice on what to get. Thanks

Had my girl 7 months now and always thought 29c - 30c warm side was pretty good but now I'm thinking maybe 32c during the day warm side and 29c at night? What do you all think?

My wife and I are looking into getting a ball python and are starting to get things together so we can. Along our journey of research before getting one we learned about keeping a cool and warm side. The enclosure we purchased has heat tape with a thermostat along the back and a led strip mounted on top with magnet tape. The person we got the enclosure from said the front of the tank would be the cool side but I’m getting conflicting information online about the tape being adequate and about the front and back of the tank not making a good gradient. Have any of you ever had a set up like this with success? If we need to change some things please advise what and how. Thanks!

Dimensions are approximately 40.5”x14”x9” (9” is inside floor to ceiling, other measurements are exterior)

hi everyone! im a new ball python owner of a beautiful one year old boy I got at last weekend’s reptile show and I am having a hard time getting the right heat for the warm side/basking area. in the picture I have the light and lamp im using which I thought was right but according to my reading im only getting 80-85 F ?? what do i need to change? is this warm enough? any help or suggestions are appreciated!!

I just got my first snake for my birthday two days ago and I’m struggling to maintain the humidity inside the terrarium. The humidity has been doing down 10% in less than 15 minutes and I don’t know why. I have a big water dish, half coco husk substrate (I heard this was good for humidity), half aspen bedding, sphagnum moss that has been soaking in warm water (also heard this helps with humidity), wet paper towels, aluminum foil on top of the mesh to keep the heat from escaping so much and I feel like I have to spray the entire terrarium 3-4 times an hour.

I ordered a misting system off of Amazon but I don’t understand how I can get the cords inside.

He likes to climb his branch and rest up there, but I’m worried he’s too close to his heat lamp. The thermostat is set to 90° and the probe is lying on top of his hide. I spot checked the branch and it’s 90° and the fatter part of his body that’s up the highest read 97°. Is he smart enough to know when it’s getting too hot and move?

EDIT: I immediately turned the lamp off after this picture was taken and have since rearranged his tank. I also would appreciate some input on probe placement in the picture I have put in the comments.

Just got a ball python and trusted the information the employee at the reptile store gave us. It was not correct. I cannot get the tank up to temp. I have a heating pad on a thermostat and have a basking bulb but don’t have any way to hang it. The substrate above the heating pad in his dark hide is sitting at 83F and the air temp on the cool side is 74F. I can go get a clamp in the morning for the bulb but am afraid he might have issues overnight. I also was told that a 40gal tank is plenty for a near full grown however I am second guessing that. Any advice?