Hi friends! I’ve returned with another performance costume! Scroll to the end to see more of the amazing photos we took, including a twirl shot :)
This outfit was handmade for a local fashion show, for which I am the host and producer. In the spirit of the event, I wanted to bring a showstopping look that was handmade using mostly materials I already had. This post is about the construction of the headpiece and skirt.
I’ve made a few of these double hennin hats before, so the construction was pretty straightforward. I rolled some cones out of felt interfacing and pinned them to my wig block, taking care to make them symmetrical (pic 3). I knew I wanted this headpiece to have three horns with a smaller one in the middle, and played around with some interfacing scraps until I got a shape I was happy with (pics 4 and 5).
I hot glued all that together and covered it with some rhinestone stretch velvet I had laying around, also secured in place with hot glue (pic 6). The silver star and moon appliqués (pic 7) are from a fabric remnant I found at a thrift store ages ago; unfortunately, they are made of sequins. I am still finding little black half sequins all around my house from having to cut out all the shapes at odd angles. I played around with composition a bit, trying a few arrangements and pinning them into place, before securing everything with even more hot glue once I was happy with the design. I added final embellishments using some silver trim and rhinestones from my craft ephemera bin (pic 8) to add some dimension and polish. The headpiece took me about 8 hours to make over the course of 3-4 days. That was the easy part of this outfit done; now time for The Beast.
The Beast is a tearaway ballgown skirt made from over 40 yards of black tulle. I did have to buy this fabric new, as well as the crinoline fabric I used for the understructure. By the end of this project, I was having to wrestle with it every few stitches just to be able to sit down. Oh, and did I mention The Beast was my first ever project on a sewing machine? I am nothing if not ambitious. When I started working on The Beast I had about 3 weeks left until show day, and I’m honestly still kind of shocked I managed to finish her on time.
To make The Beast I followed this tutorial by Frieda Lepold. Without her I would have been utterly lost. I highly recommend checking out her channel if you like pretty fantasy inspired gowns and want to learn how to make them.
I used Frieda’s negative pattern method to create the understructure (pic 9) and marked where all the tulle layers were going to go with white straight stitches. I then measured the distance from each guideline to the floor to figure out how long all my tulle layers needed to be. A majority of my time spent working on this project consisted of measuring and cutting rectangles out of tulle. I decided to forgo circular layers at the top despite Frieda’s recommendation, since I was running low on time and sanity and just needed the skirt done. This ended up giving The Beast a slimmer silhouette at the top than I wanted, but I’m happy with it regardless.
Layer by layer, I sewed and gathered each piece of tulle before attaching them all to the skirt (pics 10 and 11.) When all the layers were in place, I sewed a lining on the inside (pic 12) as the crinoline fabric is a very stiff, scratchy mesh. In the photo it’s pinned to the back seams, but I decided to just sew it at the waistband to allow it to move more freely inside the skirt. The nice thing about the skirt being a tearaway garment is that I didn’t have to close the back, so instead I sewed on a waistband, added some snaps and a pull tab, and called it a day. The sheer volume of tulle disguises the open back, even when I’m walking, twirling, and dancing, which is super convenient and makes for a better reveal.
I was going to call it done here but looking at the outfit all together, I decided it needed more. I had the idea to make silver stars out of paper to match the headpiece, and found this super simple tutorial for making them. The silver paper I had wasn’t ideal for folding, so I made the bigger stars out of Bristol board and cut out triangles to glue to the outside (pics 13, 14, 15). This method worked okay, though it came out looking a little sloppy, and I might remake them in the future.
To attach the stars to the skirt, I glued ribbons to the points of each star and sewed them to a waistband I made out of some leftover lining fabric and a black feather boa I had in my scrap bin (pic 16). The back is secured with snaps. This way I can make a modular system of “toppers” for this skirt in all kinds of colors and designs, so I can style it in as many ways as I want.
Overall, this project was a massive undertaking and I learned a lot. The skirt itself went smoother than I was expecting once I got into a rhythm, but there were definitely a few times halfway through where I contemplated just giving up and wearing something else for the show. I had a vision, though, and I would not let myself stop until I brought it to life. I’m very happy with how everything came together, and I am so excited to bring this costume to the stage.