TL;DR: 25F with dry, acne-prone skin. Recently stripped my routine down to just hydration and soothing basics. Skin is calm but I want to target pore size, brightening/PIH, and anti-aging. Do I risk adding actives back in, or leave it alone?
My Skin Type & History
Type: Dry, sensitive, and acne-prone. My skin feels tight after almost every cleanser, and I get occasional flaky/gritty skin on my forehead, but no intense overall oiliness.
History: Struggled with acne since age 11. I used to do a complex, multi-step routine (heavily inspired by Ashley Mixon), my skin was glowy/shiny - like light reflective, but I still had redness/sensitivity, acne, PIH. i felt like I was using a ton of products and not seeing any crazy results.
Past Actives: Used a custom prescription (0.05% Tretinoin / 2% Niacinamide / 8% Azelaic Acid) a few years ago for about 6-9months, just didn’t see much if a difference so I stopped using.
Current Routine (K-Beauty Focus)
My skin has been much calmer since cutting back to these basics:
AM: SKIN1004 Centella Ampoule Foam → CosRX Snail Mucin Essence → SKIN1004 Centella Soothing Cream → Beauty of Joseon Sunscreen.
PM: Anua Heartleaf Cleansing Oil → SKIN1004 Foam → CosRX Snail Mucin → Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream.
I also just started using the thayers milky toner mist here and there for added moisture, I like it so far I think.
My Goals
I want to target brightening/PIH, pore-minimizing, gentle exfoliation, and anti-aging without triggering breakouts or ruining my skin barrier.
The Dilemma & Ingredients I'm Considering:
Ingredients I dislike: Vitamin C and Niacinamide generally don't work for me and cause breakouts - I’ve tried a few formulations (though I’m mildly curious about the Then I Met You Giving Essence despite it having niacinamide). I didn’t really like the anua azelaic acid and everyone raves about it. I’m wondering if azelaic acid is another problem ingredient for me?
What I'm eyeing: The Farmacy Brighten Up Toner (TXA/Azelaic acid blend) for gentle exfoliation and brightening.
The Tret Route: Considering going back to Tretinoin, potentially paired with Azelaic Acid.
My question for you all:
Since my skin is doing pretty well right now, should I risk incorporating new products to reach that next "glass skin" level, or should I just quit while I'm ahead? If I do add something, what would you suggest based on my sensitivities? I prefer K-beauty, but mainly I want clean, high quality, evidenced based ingredients. I don’t have the skin type where I can just play around and slap anything on and have it work for me so I am very careful trying products - hence why I went back to basics with my routine. I still want a mostly simple routine, I want core, holy grail, multi use products. I don’t want to have to get a million things in order to get all the ingredients I want. I have considered skin cycling again, I work night shift at the moment so skin cycling is hard/confusing with an ever changing schedule, but I am transitioning to dayshift so I night be able to try that again. I am happy to take advice, discuss products/give me recommendations, but if you do have suggestions, let me know how to best incorporate them. :)