Is it true that when converting stereo audio to mono, the left and right channels are mixed together, and some sounds can change or even partially cancel each other out?

I converted several stereo songs to mono, and some sounds disappeared when I listened to them through headphones, but those same sounds were still audible when I listened through my phone's speaker.

Is this possible? Does sound cancellation when converting stereo to mono only happen when listening through headphones?

i’m looking for a headset wire that will last more than a month. I had one, but it finally broke after years. I’m looking for one that has good durability male to male that will controller

I've done some research for a mic and ended up with this one, I've had a fifine with a boom arm mic and the boom ar broke in like 3 weeks. My pc is in the living room so some noice cancellation would be good and some good longevity not 3 weeks. Budget of 0-75 euro and ended up on the Audio-Technica ATR2100x.

Should i get it?????

Recently was gifted a wired headset witch used usbc to connect it also comes with a adapter to make it usb but I need something to plug into my controller or something because when i simply plug it into the xbox there’s power but no audio. I already have a cheap usbc to aux and tried to simply plug it in to my wired head set but still no audio I think it need more power(i can send photos of what i currently have*

I have a pair of Audio-Technica M40x headphones and I wanted to upgrade to better ones. I'd like some with a wide soundstage for a closed-back design (at least better than the AKG K553 and similar to the models I'll mention later), that are closed-back, and that don't have a warm sound signature (I prefer a more neutral/analytical one).

I was thinking about the Beyerdynamic DT 1770 Pro MK2 or the Aune SR7000, but neither is available in my country. So, what would you recommend that have these characteristics, low impedance, and, very importantly, cost no more than the Beyer and the Aune (I don't have the budget for anything more expensive)?

I'm currently using version 2.0.111 of the Rodecaster app on my PC and was just prompted to update to the latest version, as well as the latest firmware for my Rodecaster Duo (currently on 1.7.3, the upgrade would be to 1.7.6). I suppose I would need to if I want to update the sound pads, but any reason to avoid these updates? The only issue I've been having every now and then is when I go to power up the unit, it restarts 3-4 times before finally loading up.

Hello,

I don't know much about speaker system and would love a little help from experts. I have a TV and a sound bar/subwoofer set up on the south side of my room. The north side is a shared wall with my neighbor. I placed my TV and the speaker away from the shared wall, thinking that I was being thoughtful. However, my neighbor placed theirs on the shared wall, so now I'm constantly hearing their TV/music from behind. Apparently it would've been smarter to place my TV and speaker on the shared wall so that sounds cancel each other out. But, my room configuration makes it hard to do this now. So, I am thinking to buy speakers that I can put either on the shared wall or near it (basically behind my couch) so that I don't have to listen to my neighbor. What would be an ideal setup to achieve this goal? I'm assuming that I'll need to surround sound system?

Hi, im hoping this is the right place to ask a question like this. I recently bought an old-ish split EP by 2 very obscure punk bands on vinyl. There’s barely anything online about the 2 bands and no audio whatsoever of the EP, so I want to try and digitise the record because it’s got some fantastic songs on it. My turntable is an audio technica LP60x and I’ve got a laptop with Reaper installed on it, but the only audio interface I have is my guitar amp with a broken 3.5mm AUX input. If I use the built-in preamp on the turntable, plug an AUX cable into the back of the turntable in the port where the speaker cables would go, and plug the other end into the 3.5mm port on my laptop, would I be able to record the audio in a DAW? Cheers in advance

Hey! Just need ok cheap speaker reccomendations something that I can put music into through the 3.5 mm input slot

Good evening, gentlemen. I don't know if this is the right place for this, but if it isn't, let me know and I'll post it elsewhere.

I've always preferred wired headphones. Ever since they removed the headphone jack from phones, I've dreaded the day I'd have to upgrade to a phone without one. Well, that day has come. I had an S10+ with a headphone jack, but it died, so I upgraded to an S24 Ultra, which doesn't have one. But no biggie, I'll just use one of those USB-C DACs. OMG, what a terrible experience.

Apart from the obvious problem of having a dongle dangling from my phone, I haven't been able to find one that isn't just absolute sh*t. I've tried four different brands from Amazon, and they all just suck in one way or another.

First, there's the microphone problem: it just sounds terrible, and there's nothing I can do about it. The reason I use wired headphones is that call quality is much better than with Bluetooth (which, speaking of, I don't know how we still haven't managed to solve that issue, but that's another topic).

Then there's the issue with latency. It only happened with one of the DACs I tried, but for whatever reason, the latency was noticeable.

And finally, the issue that infuriates me the most: audio cutting out when the volume is very low. I usually listen to podcasts or music at a lower volume than most people would consider normal, especially at night, when there's no background noise. I usually listen at 5–10% volume. If there's a second or two during which no audio is playing, the DAC turns off. Then, when the audio starts playing again, it takes about half a second for the DAC to turn back on, which is enough to make me miss the first word of a sentence or song. It's been driving me insane for the better part of a year now, and I haven't been able to find a solution.

Does anyone know how I can solve this, or if there's a better dongle-style DAC that doesn't suck?

Thanks for coming to my TED Talk.

Looking for an easy way to fix this. The TV’s built-in sound is in very poor condition. The right speaker is effectively dead, producing almost no sound unless the volume is turned all the way up to 100. The left speaker distorts badly at higher volumes: the treble becomes harsh, and the bass sounds muddy and bloated. The TV is a JVC LT-32C351 that is more than 10 years old and has experienced various forms of wear, including this speaker deterioration. The video demonstrates how poor the sound is when a song is played at the normal volume setting of 20.

I have bought the Fosi Audio K5 Pro yesterday. In the beginning I connected it to my computer with a USB-C to USB-A cable, from Anker. It worked fine. When I turned my computer on today morning, I heard a crackling or buzzing sound every three seconds in the headphones. This has nothing to do with my headphones. They work fine when connected to the motherboard DAC.

I have an MSI 870 E Tomahawk motherboard. Even on the motherboard, I have had two headphones having a constant buzzing sound in the left ear of the headphones. This is why I bought the DAC, to get rid of it. But the buzzing sound on the motherboard's end happens about every 2/10th of the time I use my computer, which is strange. With my DAC now, I switched the cable out and use a different USB-C to USB-C cable. It worked. But when I started booted the computer up again, I hear the crackling buzzing sound every three seconds again, consistently every three seconds exactly.

But when I reconnect the USB-C cable, in the DAC, then the crackling is gone, and it shows the DAC in the audio-output menu in the taskbar. It seems like the DAC might be disabled upon boot. But I checked power option settings, and have disabled the 'USB selective suspend setting' in USB Settings in Power Options. It still cracks, and have to constantly reconnect the DAC every time I start my computer. I obviously don't want to do that every time I start the computer. Do you have any solutions to this?

Hi everyone,

I'm desperately looking for a plug-and-play Bluetooth receiver for my car that satisfies a few very specific requirements.

I just returned another generic adapter from UGREEN because I cannot stand loud, jarring synthetic voice prompts screaming "POWER ON / BLUETOOTH CONNECTED" every single time I start the engine.

Here is what I'm looking for:

1. NO voice prompts at all – Absolute dealbreaker. Either a subtle soft beep/chime or completely silent connection. No loud voice announcements.
2. Auto Power On / Off – Must power on automatically when receiving 12V/USB power from the ignition and turn off when the car shuts down. No built-in battery requiring me to hold a physical power button every time I get in the car.
3. USB-powered + 3.5mm AUX – Plugs into a 12V USB charger in the center console and connects to the factory 3.5mm AUX jack.
4. Budget-friendly and actually available – I know about the TUNAI Firefly, but it is currently out of stock / unavailable in Europe.

Most mass-market adapters (UGREEN, Baseus, Mcdodo, Joyroom) seem to share the same cheap JL/Jerry chipsets with hardcoded voice files.

Does anyone know of a currently available adapter (or specific chipset/brand) that operates silently and turns on with ignition?

Thanks in advance!

I can't get rid of this muddy sound. It ruins everything. I have a m-audio m-track duo hd (no latency no problem but as you can see something wrong with sound. I tried every amp and cab but it's still like that.

Settings:

INST switch active, 48k hz 256 samples and I, ASIO4ALL included (I tried also the m audio's origin driver)

Reaper and Revalver I use

Hi guys,

I am planning to buy one of these speakers, but I am confused.

My priorities are sound quality, stereo sound if possible, and customization. I am quite impressed with the Flip 7 because I saw somewhere that you can match the Flex's sound signature in the Flip by adjusting the EQ.

On the other hand, the Xsound comes at half the price with the same customization options and stereo sound. I went through videos online and felt that the Xsound might not sound as good as the other two. Need your reviews and suggestions here.

Please help me understand: if my usage is mostly indoors in a room and I listen mostly at lower volumes, should I go with the Flip 7 and use customizations to meet the Flex's sound signature, or save some money and get the Tribit since it also has customization options available? Would it be worth it? or if I should stick with bose?

If I missed something, please point it out. I will update the post. I also had the Emberton 2 in mind, but I saw some issues with the buttons and the lack of EQ options (I would need high bass in outdoor settings), which is why my priorities boiled down to these two. Feel free to suggest any of the four.

Thanks in advance.

I want to be able to record Appalachian or Irish sessions (In Ireland) with one of my recorders using a small discrete stereo mic I can place or blue tac above the session or hang from a cord if feasible. The Appalachian sessions may be either indoors or outdoors but the Irish sessions will be in pubs and often noisey so a tight cardioid pattern would be desirable. I don't want to look like a music tourist and I'll keep the recorder somewhere discrete.

I'd like to keep it under $100 and portability and battery life is an important parameter. I intend to use the 3.5mm stereo jacks.

Thanks!

Bob

So i’m a total noob and this is my first
time in this sub, I hope this is the correct one to ask this in.

So this is my setup:
I have a DDJ 400 controller that is connected via cable (usb) to my computer.
From my controller there is an audio cable that connects the controller with my audio interface (correct term?), which is connected to my speakers.

On my computer I can change between headphones and speakers by pressing a button and everything there works like it should.

My question now is: Can I somehow alter this setup by adding something bluetooth related, so that I can access the speakers with my phone aswell, while not altering the functionality I have currently (ctrl-alt-5 shortcut to switch between speakers and headphones)?

First picture is my controller and the USB to my pc, aswell as the red/white cable which goes into my sound interface.
Second picture is that interface with cables coming from my controller, with cables going to my speakers.
h
I’d appreciate any help, thanks!

Has anyone else experienced TikTok changing the audio volume of their videos after posting?

My video sounds normal on my phone and in the TikTok editor before posting. However, once the video is published, the audio becomes extremely loud and sounds completely different.

I've tried different file formats, deleting and re-uploading the video, adjusting the volume in my editing software and TikTok's editor, and uploading from both a PC and different phones. Unfortunately, the same problem keeps happening.

I make ASMR videos, so consistent audio levels are especially important.

Does anyone know what might be causing this or how to fix it? I'd really appreciate any suggestions. Thank you!

I just bought a Shure SV200 along with a xlr to usb cable so that I could connect it to my PC. Upon trying to use it, the mic volume is extremely low no matter what I try. I can barely hear anything at all. I've watched about 10 different videos and can't figure out what the issue is.

Is it the cable I'm using? Do I need a specific software to make it work properly?? I'm at a loss

I need help identifying exactly what this connector is, it looks almost like a standard audio jack plug, but it’s slightly wider and weirdly shaped.

For context, it’s the audio plug from a military flight helmet, and I’m wondering if I can get it to work as a mic

I’m new to recording music, but would like to record outdoor concerts while achieving minimal background noise. I’ve read that the zoom H4N pro has better preamps which I guess means it records sound at a quieter volume level better than otherwise. I’ve also read that the zoom H4N pro can be positioned more directionally in order to focus on a specific set of sounds i.e. the stage, rather than what’s happening behind the microphone.

I will be using the recorder with the microphone on them rather than plugging in to the music system. I know this is less clean, but it is the option. I have right now.

I have also seen the zoom H2N recorder which looks like it records a bit more multi directionally and I’m not sure about its preempt situation.

My question is, which would be better for my purposes? I’m new to this endeavor, so I appreciate anyone with more knowledge than me sharing their thoughts on the two option.

Recently had a baby and am trying to minimize screen time and maximize great music in the house. I currently have a crappy Crosley all-in-one that I want upgrade from on a pretty tight budget. I'm looking for the best hi-fi system for my record collection in the $500-$1000 range. The listening space is a 16' by 30' living room. I don't have a lot of surface space available, so floor-standing speakers are preferred. The records I'll be spinning with the system range in genre and include a lot 60's/70's/80's singer-songwriters, rock (blues, hard, psychedelic, folk, prog, heartland), jazz/fusion, funk, and soul/R&B, with some 90's and 2000's indie and alt mixed in. Discogs for reference: https://www.discogs.com/user/jedelman1992/collection

For further context, I'm located in the U.S. and I have minimal experience with multi-component sound systems, so looking for something (1) simple to buy - not shopping around on FB Marketplace/Craigslist for equipment that I don't know how to evaluate and (2) relatively simple to set up and maintain - limited time to teach myself ins and outs of a more complex sound system so better than all-in-one but less components is probably best. I know my options will be limited given my budget and limited knowledge, but given that I don't have a lot of time and money, I'm essentially looking for the best hi-fi system I can get for the family to enjoy.

I know there are a lot of variables/constraints here, so I thank y'all in advance for the help!

Hi, I have a 2013 Audi A4 B8.5 and I want to upgrade the sound system, but I’d like to keep it as close to original as possible. I’m just looking for clearer sound in the car. I don't have the B&O system. Can anyone help?

Hello,

I moved recently, and after setting up my mic (rode nt1) and interface (scarlet focusrite solo 3rd gen) to my laptop, my mic is making a terrible buzzing sound :(. I have a mess of cords on my desk but even after unplugging everything & keeping just the interface + mic plugged into my laptop the noise won’t go away. It only quiets when I put my hand on the interface for some reason. Plz help me bro I’m gonna go crazy.